Planed All Round Batten Screening

If you are buying timber for a fencing, landscaping, joinery, or DIY project, you may have seen terms like PAR timber and PSE timber and wondered what the difference actually is.

These are two of the most commonly searched timber terms in the UK, especially for customers looking to build garden structures, fencing, decking, furniture, shelving, or interior woodwork.

In this guide, we explain:

• What PAR timber means
• What PSE timber means
• The differences between PAR and PSE timber
• Which option is best for your project
• Common timber sizes and applications
• Where to buy quality timber online

If you are looking for high-quality timber products, browse our ranges here:

• Timber Products
• C24 Structural Timber
• Rails & Timber Battens

What Does PAR Timber Mean?

PAR stands for “Planed All Round.”

This means the timber has been machine planed smooth on all four sides.

PAR timber is designed to create a cleaner, smoother, and more professional finish compared to rough-sawn timber.

It is commonly used where:

• Appearance matters
• Timber will be visible
• A smooth finish is required
• Customers want reduced splintering

PAR timber is popular for:

• Interior joinery
• Shelving
• Furniture
• Decorative garden projects
• Pergolas
• Slatted fencing
• Timber framing details

Because the timber is planed smooth, the finished dimensions are slightly smaller than the original sawn size.

What Does PSE Timber Mean?

PSE stands for: Planed Square Edge

PSE timber is effectively a type of PAR timber.

The key difference is that:

• PSE timber is planed smooth
• The edges are left square rather than rounded or moulded

In most cases, PAR and PSE are used interchangeably in the timber trade.

When customers search for:

• PAR timber
• PSE timber
• Smooth-planed timber

…they are often looking for the same type of product.

PAR vs PSE Timber: What’s The Difference?

The difference is usually very minor.

In reality:

• Most PSE timber is also PAR timber
• PSE simply highlights the square edge profile

Many suppliers use the terms interchangeably.

Why Choose PAR Timber?

Planed all round timber is ideal for projects where appearance and finish matter.

Benefits include:

• Smooth professional finish
• Easier to paint or stain
• Reduced splinters
• Cleaner modern appearance
• Easier handling
• Better for visible applications

It is especially popular in:

• Modern landscaping
• Horizontal slatted fencing
• Pergolas
• Garden screens
• Interior DIY projects

Browse timber suitable for these projects here:

• Timber Rails & Battens
• Outdoor Living Products

When Should You Use Rough Sawn Timber Instead?

Rough sawn timber is often better for:

• Structural fencing
• Agricultural projects
• Heavy-duty outdoor construction
• Budget-conscious builds
• Rustic aesthetics

It is usually:

• Cheaper
• Stronger-looking
• More traditional in appearance

For example:

• Closeboard fencing
• Post and rail fencing
• Feather edge fencing

Related products:

• Closeboard Fencing Materials
• Fence Posts

Is PAR Timber Treated?

Planed all round timber can be:

• Untreated
• Pressure treated
• Kiln dried
• Internal grade
• External grade

For outdoor projects, always choose:

• Pressure treated timber
• Exterior-grade timber

This helps protect against:

• Rot
• Moisture
• Fungal decay
• Insect attack

For structural outdoor projects, treated timber is essential.

Common Uses For PAR & PSE Timber

Horizontal Slatted Fencing

Smooth planed battens create modern contemporary fencing designs.

Pergolas & Garden Structures

PAR timber creates a much cleaner finish for visible garden structures.

Related:

• Pergolas & Outdoor Living

Shelving & DIY Projects

PSE timber is widely used for:

• Shelving
• Benches
• Storage projects
• Furniture
• Garage fit-outs

Timber Framing & Joinery

Planed timber is often used for:

• Studwork finishing details
• Decorative trims
• Timber framing
• Internal woodworking

Related:

• C24 Timber

What Sizes Does PAR Timber Come In?

Common PAR timber sizes include:

• 25mm x 50mm
• 50mm x 75mm
• 50mm x 100mm
• 50mm x 150mm
• 50mm x 200mm

Remember:
Finished planed sizes are smaller than the original sawn sizes.

For example:

• 47mm x 75mm sawn timber may finish around 45mm x 70mm once planed.

Is Planed Timber More Expensive?

Yes, PAR timber is generally more expensive than rough sawn timber because it undergoes additional machining and finishing.

However, many customers feel the benefits justify the extra cost due to:

• Improved appearance
• Easier handling
• Less preparation work
• Better finished result

PAR Timber vs CLS Timber

Customers often compare PAR timber with CLS timber.

PAR Timber

• Smooth finish
• Often square-edged
• Used for visible applications

CLS Timber

• Rounded edges
• Primarily structural
• Common in stud walls and framing

CLS is more construction-focused, while PAR is usually chosen for appearance.

How To Maintain Planed Timber Outdoors

To maximise lifespan:

• Use pressure-treated timber
• Avoid standing water
• Maintain airflow around timber
• Reapply protective treatment when needed
• Use galvanised or stainless fixings

Good installation dramatically improves longevity.

Related Timber Guides

You may also find these guides helpful:

• What Is C24 Timber? C24 vs C16 Explained
• How To Build a Horizontal Slatted Fence
• Garden Fence Explained

Buy Quality Timber Online

At Clarke Fencing, we supply a wide range of timber products suitable for landscaping, fencing, construction, and DIY projects.

Our range includes:

• C24 structural timber
• Timber battens and rails
• Fence posts
• Decking timber
• Sleepers and landscaping timber

Whether you are building modern slatted fencing, pergolas, shelving, or structural outdoor projects, our team can help you choose the right timber for the job.

The post What is PAR Timber? PAR vs PSE Answered appeared first on Clarke Fencing.

Horizontal slatted fencing has become one of the most popular modern garden fencing styles in the UK. Its clean lines, contemporary appearance, and ability to balance privacy with airflow make it a favourite for homeowners, landscapers, and garden designers alike.

Whether you are creating a modern garden boundary, screening a patio area, or upgrading tired fencing, a horizontal slatted fence can completely transform your outdoor space.

In this guide, we will explain exactly how to build a horizontal slatted fence, including the materials you need, recommended spacing, post options, installation methods, and how to achieve a professional finish that lasts.

If you are looking for ready-to-install materials, browse our range of horizontal slatted fencing products here:

• Slatted Fence Panels
• Fence Posts
• Concrete Fence Posts
• Wooden Fence Posts

Why Choose Horizontal Slatted Fencing?

Horizontal slatted fencing offers a completely different look compared to traditional overlap or closeboard fence panels.

Benefits include:

• Modern architectural appearance
• Improved airflow compared to solid fencing
• Partial privacy without making the garden feel enclosed
• Ideal for contemporary landscaping projects
• Works well with decking, patios, pergolas, and rendered walls
• Can be built as fully bespoke fencing or using pre-made panels

This style is particularly popular in new-build gardens and outdoor entertaining spaces where appearance matters just as much as practicality.

What Timber Should You Use?

Choosing the correct timber is one of the most important parts of building a durable slatted fence.

Most horizontal slatted fencing is built using:

Planed Softwood Battens

Smooth-planed timber creates the cleanest modern finish and is the most common option for residential gardens.

Pressure Treated Timber

Always choose pressure-treated timber for outdoor fencing. This protects against:

• Rot
• Fungal decay
• Moisture damage
• Insect attack

Recommended Slat Sizes

Popular sizes include:

• Planed Battening 3.6m x 47mm x 22mm PAR Treated Green

You can also explore our timber ranges here:

• Timber Rails
• PAR – Planed All Round Timber 

What Fence Posts Should You Use?

Your fence is only as strong as the posts supporting it.

There are two main options:

Wooden Fence Posts

Wooden posts provide a softer, more natural appearance and are ideal for modern timber fencing projects.

Advantages:

• More seamless appearance
• Easier to screw directly into
• Popular for residential gardens

Recommended sizes:

• 100mm x 100mm timber posts
• UC4 pressure-treated posts for ground contact

Browse:

• Wooden Fence Posts

Concrete Fence Posts

Concrete posts offer maximum durability and longevity.

Advantages:

• Extremely long-lasting
• Rot-proof
• Excellent for exposed or windy gardens
• Lower long-term maintenance

Browse:

• Concrete Fence Posts

What Spacing Should You Leave Between Slats?

Spacing dramatically affects both privacy and appearance.

Common spacing options include:

For most gardens, a 15mm–25mm spacing creates the best balance between style and privacy.

Using a spacer block during installation helps maintain perfectly even gaps.

Materials You Will Need

Typical materials include:

• Horizontal timber slats
• Fence posts
• Postcrete
• screws
• Spirit level
• Tape measure
• String line
• Mitre saw, or circular saw
• Drill/driver

Recommended accessories:

• Postcrete & Aggregates
• Timber Screws

Step-by-Step: How To Build a Horizontal Slatted Fence

1. Plan Your Fence Layout

Start by measuring the total fence run.

Mark:

• Post positions
• Gate openings
• Corners
• Ground-level changes

Most fence bays are spaced around:

• 1.8m centres
• 2.4m centres

Smaller spans generally create a stronger fence.

2. Install The Fence Posts

Dig post holes approximately:

• 600mm deep minimum
• Wider for taller fences or exposed locations

Use a string line to keep posts perfectly aligned.

Secure posts using:

• Concrete
• Or fast-setting Postcrete

Recommended:

• Postcrete

Allow posts to fully set before fitting slats.

3. Fit Horizontal Support Rails

Most slatted fences use vertical battens or rails fixed between posts first.

These provide the framework for attaching horizontal slats.

Typically:

• 2 rails for lower fencing
• 3 rails for taller fencing

Ensure rails are level before continuing.

4. Attach The Horizontal Slats

Start at the bottom and work upwards.

Use spacer blocks to maintain consistent gaps.

Important tips:

• Pre-drill timber where necessary
• Use exterior-grade screws
• Check levels regularly
• Keep slats perfectly parallel

For a premium look:

• Hide fixings where possible
• Use black screws for contrast
• Ensure all slats are cut consistently

5. Add Finishing Touches

To complete the fence:

• Sand rough edges
• Apply protective treatment if required
• Fit matching gates
• Add lighting or landscaping

Matching products:

• Garden Gates
• Decking Supplies

Should You Build From Scratch Or Buy Ready-Made Panels?

Build From Scratch

Best for:

• Custom sizing
• Unique spacing
• Bespoke garden designs

Ready-Made Slatted Panels

Best for:

• Faster installation
• Consistent appearance
• Easier DIY fitting

Browse ready-made options:

• Decorative & Slatted Fence Panels

How Long Does Horizontal Slatted Fencing Last?

A properly installed pressure-treated slatted fence can last:

• 10–15+ years with timber posts
• Even longer with concrete or steel posts

Lifespan depends on:

• Ground contact
• Timber quality
• Drainage
• Exposure to weather
• Ongoing maintenance

Using quality materials is critical for long-term durability.

Is Horizontal Slatted Fencing Good For Wind?

Yes, horizontal slatted fencing can perform very well in windy areas because the gaps allow air to pass through the structure.

Compared to solid fence panels, slatted fencing often experiences:

• Reduced wind resistance
• Less strain on posts
• Lower risk of storm damage

For exposed gardens:

• Use stronger posts
• Reduce post spacing
• Install deeper footings

Related Guides

You may also find these helpful:

• Installing Residential Fencing: A Beginner’s Guide
• Factors To Consider When Choosing The Right Fence For You
• The Types of Fence Panels To Choose From For Your Garden

Shop Horizontal Slatted Fencing Materials

At Clarke Fencing, we supply a wide range of fencing materials suitable for modern horizontal slatted fencing projects, including:

• Decorative slatted fence panels
• Timber battens and rails
• Wooden fence posts
• Concrete fence posts
• Postcrete and fixings
• Matching gates and landscaping products

Whether you are building a fully bespoke slatted fence or installing ready-made decorative panels, our team can help you choose the right materials for your project.

The post How To Build a Horizontal Slatted Fence – A DIY Guide appeared first on Clarke Fencing.

EASYJoint is designed to make patio jointing fast, simple, and reliable. By following the correct installation process, you can achieve a clean, durable finish that allows water to drain naturally through the joints.

This guide breaks down each step clearly, based on manufacturer recommendations, so you get the best results every time.

Before You Start

Before opening the product, check the following:

• Joints must be at least 3mm wide
• Joints must be at least 20mm deep
• The paving must be laid on a free-draining base
• All joints should be clean and free from debris

Taking the time to prepare properly will ensure the jointing compound performs as intended.

Step 1: Pre-Soak the Paving

For best results, especially with natural stone paving

• Thoroughly soak the entire area with water
• Ensure both slabs and joints are fully saturated

This step is essential. A wet surface helps prevent staining and allows the EASYJoint to flow properly into the joints.

Step 2: Pour the EASYJoint

Once the paving is fully soaked:

• Cut open the bag or tub
• Pour the EASYJoint directly onto the wet paving surface

Work in manageable sections to maintain control during application.

Step 3: Wet to Create a Slurry

• Apply water directly onto the EASYJoint
• Mix it into a wet slurry consistency

This activates the compound and allows it to move freely into the joints.

Step 4: Sweep Into the Joints

Using a stiff brush or squeegee:

• Sweep the compound diagonally across the paving
• Push it firmly into all joints while continuing to add water

⚠️ Work quickly and avoid leaving the compound sitting in piles.

Top Tip:
It is much easier with two people

• One sweeping the compound
• One applying water

Step 5: Top Up the Joints

• Check all joints are fully filled
• Add more EASYJoint where needed
• Repeat the wetting and sweeping process

Top Tip:
In warm weather, paving can dry quickly. Always keep the surface wet during installation.

Step 6: Final Rinse

• Rinse the entire area thoroughly with clean water
• Wash off all excess residue from the slab surface

This step is crucial to prevent staining and to help settle the compound into the joints.

Top Tip:
Reduce wastage by saving unused product. Submerge it in approximately 2 inches of water to keep it usable.

Step 7: Pointing

For a smoother, more defined finish:

• Use a pointing tool or jointing iron
• Strike the joints to compact and shape them

This step improves both the appearance and long-term strength of the joint.

Aftercare and Drying Time

• Avoid foot traffic for at least 24 hours
• Full curing may take several days depending on weather conditions

Cool or damp conditions will slow curing, while warm weather will speed it up.

Key Things to Remember

• Always work on a wet surface
• Keep the paving wet throughout installation
• Ensure joints meet minimum width and depth
• Clean thoroughly to avoid residue marks
• Only use on a free-draining base

Final Thoughts

EASYJoint is one of the quickest and most effective ways to joint a patio, but correct installation is key to achieving a strong, long-lasting result.

By following this step-by-step process, you can create a clean, professional finish that enhances both the look and durability of your paving.

Want to find out more about EASYJoint? Read our full guide – What is EASYJoint? The Complete Guide to Patio Jointing Compound

The post How To Use EASYJoint – Full Step-by-Step Guide appeared first on Clarke Fencing.

When installing a patio or paving project, the finish of your joints is just as important as the slabs themselves. Poor jointing can lead to weeds, movement, and water damage over time. That is where EASYJoint comes in.

EASYJoint is one of the UK’s most popular patio jointing compounds, designed to make pointing paving quick, clean, and long-lasting. Whether you are a DIY homeowner or a professional landscaper, it offers a faster and more reliable alternative to traditional sand and cement.

EASYJoint Stone Grey

EASYJoint Mushroom

EASYJoint Buff Sand

EASYJoint Basalt

In this guide, we explain what EASYJoint is, how it works, where to use it, and why it has become a go-to solution for patios and pathways.

What is EASYJoint?

EASYJoint is an all-weather, sweep-in jointing compound used to fill the gaps between paving slabs. It is a permeable material that allows water to drain through the joints, helping to prevent water build-up and long-term damage.

Unlike traditional mortar, EASYJoint is applied using water to create a slurry that is brushed into the joints, making installation significantly easier and quicker.

It is commonly used for:

• Patios
• Garden paths
• Courtyards
• Domestic landscaping projects

Why Choose EASYJoint Over Traditional Pointing?

1. Fast and Easy Installation

EASYJoint is designed to be applied quickly with minimal tools. You simply wet the paving, pour the compound, and sweep it into the joints.

This makes it ideal for:

• DIY installations
• Large patio areas
• Time-sensitive jobs

2. All-Weather Application

Unlike traditional pointing, EASYJoint can be applied in most weather conditions, making it far more flexible for UK projects.

3. Permeable and Drainage-Friendly

EASYJoint allows water to pass through the joints rather than sit on the surface. This reduces:

• Standing water
• Frost damage
• Long-term joint failure

However, it must be installed on a free-draining base to perform correctly.

4. Strong and Durable Finish

Once cured, EASYJoint forms a solid, durable joint suitable for:

• Pedestrian traffic
• Light domestic use

It becomes firm enough to walk on within around 24 hours in good conditions.

5. Cleaner Finish Than Traditional Mortar

Because EASYJoint is applied wet and swept in, it reduces mess and helps avoid staining when installed correctly with plenty of water.

Where Can You Use EASYJoint?

EASYJoint is suitable for most paving types, including:

• Natural stone paving
• Concrete slabs
• Porcelain paving (with correct method)

However, there are some important limitations:

Suitable Conditions

• Minimum joint width: 3mm
• Minimum joint depth: 20mm
• Free-draining sub-base required

Not Suitable For

• Traditional block paving (too narrow joints)
• Areas with poor drainage or standing water
• Most driveways (use EASYJoint Pro instead)

How to Use EASYJoint (Step-by-Step)

1. Prepare the Area

• Ensure paving is clean and joints are clear
• Check the base is free-draining

2. Pre-Soak the Paving

The wetter the surface, the better. Water prevents staining and helps the compound flow properly.

3. Apply the Compound

• Pour EASYJoint onto the paving
• Add water to create a slurry

4. Sweep Into Joints

Use a broom or squeegee to work the compound into the gaps.

5. Finish the Joints

• Compact or “iron” the joints for strength and appearance
• Remove excess material

6. Clean the Surface

Wash thoroughly until no residue remains. This prevents marking and ensures a clean finish.

How Long Does EASYJoint Take to Set?

• Walkable: approx. 24 hours (in dry conditions)
• Fully cured: a few days

Cold or wet weather will slow the curing process, but it will still set once conditions improve.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

To get the best results, avoid these common issues:

• ❌ Using on a non-draining base
• ❌ Not using enough water during application
• ❌ Applying in very narrow joints
• ❌ Not cleaning the surface properly
• ❌ Using on driveways instead of the correct product

These mistakes can lead to joint failure or surface staining.

Maintenance and Aftercare

EASYJoint is low maintenance but benefits from occasional cleaning.

• Light pressure washing can remove dirt and algae
• Avoid pressure washing for at least 4 weeks after installation
• Annual cleaning helps maintain appearance

Because it is permeable, some natural colour changes or minor algae growth may occur over time. This is normal and does not affect performance.

EASYJoint vs Traditional Sand and Cement

Is EASYJoint Worth It?

For most patio and garden projects, EASYJoint is a smart investment. It saves time, improves finish quality, and reduces the risk of long-term issues when installed correctly.

It is especially ideal for:

• Homeowners installing patios
• Landscapers working on multiple jobs
• Anyone wanting a clean, professional finish without the hassle of mortar

Need More Installation Advice?

Check out our full EASYJoint Installation Guide

Final Thoughts

EASYJoint has become a trade favourite for a reason. It simplifies one of the most time-consuming parts of paving while delivering strong, long-lasting results.

If you are planning a new patio or upgrading existing paving, using a high-quality jointing compound like EASYJoint can make a significant difference to both appearance and durability.

The post What is EASYJoint? The Complete Guide to Patio Jointing Compound appeared first on Clarke Fencing.

When choosing a new garden fence, the terms closeboard and featheredge are often used interchangeably. While they are closely related, they are not the same thing. Understanding the difference helps you choose the right fencing system for your garden, budget, and durability requirements.

In this guide, we explain what closeboard fencing is, what featheredge boards are, and how they work together.

What Is Featheredge Fencing?

Featheredge refers to the individual vertical boards used to build a fence. Each board is tapered, meaning it is thicker on one edge and thinner on the other. When installed, the boards overlap to create a solid and weather-resistant fence.

Featheredge boards are not a complete fence on their own. They are a component that forms part of a closeboard fencing system.

Key Features of Featheredge Boards

• Tapered timber boards, thicker on one side

• Installed vertically with an overlap

• Typically fixed to horizontal rails

• Pressure-treated for outdoor durability

• Commonly used for strong, traditional garden fencing

Because featheredge boards are installed individually, they allow for flexibility when fencing uneven or sloping ground. Damaged boards can also be replaced one at a time without removing an entire panel.

What Is Closeboard Fencing?

Closeboard fencing is the full fencing system made using featheredge boards. It includes posts, rails, gravel boards, and featheredge boards working together to create a strong and long-lasting fence.

In simple terms:

• Featheredge is the board

• Closeboard is the fence

Closeboard fencing is sometimes called featheredge fencing, but technically, closeboard refers to the full construction method rather than the boards themselves.

Components of a Closeboard Fence

A traditional closeboard fence usually consists of:

• Fence posts, timber, or concrete

• Gravel boards at ground level

• Horizontal can’t rails fixed between posts

• Vertical featheredge boards overlapped and fixed to the rails

• Optional capping rail for a finished look

This system is widely used in the UK for garden boundaries, privacy fencing, and exposed locations where strength matters.

The post What Is the Difference Between Closeboard and Featheredge Fencing? appeared first on Clarke Fencing.

Installing gate posts correctly is essential to ensure your wooden field gate remains secure, level, and fully functional for years to come. Whether you are installing an entrance gate to a paddock, driveway, or garden, the strength of the installation depends almost entirely on the quality of the gate posts and how they are set into the ground.

Timber Gate Post

Across Suffolk, Essex, Norfolk, and Cambridgeshire, we regularly supply gate posts and field gates for agricultural access, rural properties, and residential driveways. This guide explains how to install gate posts properly using Postmix, along with recommended products and best practices.

Choosing the Correct Gate Posts

Field gates are heavy and create constant leverage on the hinge post. Using undersized posts or installing them incorrectly will lead to sagging, misalignment, and premature failure.

For most standard wooden field gates, we recommend the following softwood UC4 pressure-treated gate posts:

• 2.4m x 150mm x 150mm Softwood UC4 Pressure Treated Gate Post

• 2.4m x 200mm x 200mm Softwood UC4 Pressure Treated Gate Post

The 150mm posts are suitable for standard garden and light agricultural gates, while 200mm posts are recommended for larger, heavier field gates or exposed locations.

UC4 pressure treatment ensures maximum durability in ground contact, protecting the timber from rot and fungal decay. This makes them ideal for long-term installation across rural environments in East Anglia.

Oak gate posts are also available as a premium alternative, offering exceptional strength, natural durability, and a traditional appearance.

Recommended Supporting Products

To ensure a strong, long-lasting installation, we recommend using the following supporting products:

• Postmix concrete for securing the posts

• Post saver sleeves to extend the life of the timber

• Field gate ironmongery including hinge sets and latches

• Matching wooden field gates

Using the correct installation materials significantly improves longevity and prevents movement over time.

Post saver sleeves provide an additional protective barrier around the most vulnerable section of the post, preventing moisture and ground contact from causing rot. This can more than double the lifespan of timber gate posts.

How Deep Should Gate Posts Be Installed?

For field gates, gate posts must be installed much deeper than standard fence posts due to the weight and leverage forces applied.

We recommend:

• Minimum hole depth: 600mm

• Hole diameter: approximately 100-150mm wider than your post diameter

• Post height above ground: approximately 1.8m from a 2.4m post

This burial depth provides sufficient anchoring strength to support the weight and movement of field gates.

In softer ground or for larger gates, installing slightly deeper will provide even greater stability.

How Much Postmix Do You Need to Install a Gate Post?

Gate posts require significantly more concrete than standard fence posts.

Recommended amount:

• 3 to 5 bags of Postmix per gate post

• Heavier gates and 200mm posts typically require 4 to 5 bags

• Lighter gates with 150mm posts typically require 3 to 4 bags

Postmix is fast setting and provides excellent structural support. It is the preferred installation method across agricultural and residential gate installations throughout Suffolk and surrounding counties.

Step-by-Step Gate Post Installation Guide

Step 1: Mark the Gate Opening

Measure the exact width of your field gate and mark the locations of both posts. Allow a small clearance gap on the hinge and latch sides to ensure smooth operation.

Ensure both posts will be perfectly aligned.

Step 2: Dig the Post Holes

Dig holes:

• Minimum 600mm deep

• 300mm to 400mm diameter

Ensure the bottom of the hole is firm and level.

This depth is essential to properly support the weight of field gates.

Step 3: Install Post Saver Sleeves

Slide post saver sleeves onto the bottom section of the gate posts before installation.

These sleeves protect the timber at ground level, which is where most rot occurs.

This significantly extends the life of the gate posts, particularly in wet ground conditions common across East Anglia.

Step 4: Position the Gate Posts

Place the first gate post into the hole and ensure it is perfectly vertical using a spirit level.

Check alignment carefully, as this post will carry the hinge load.

Temporarily brace the post to hold it in position.

Step 5: Add Postmix

Pour Postmix evenly around the post inside the hole.

Follow the instructions on the Postmix packaging and add water as required.

Use:

• 3 to 5 bags per post depending on size and conditions

Allow the concrete to fully set before attaching the gate.

Step 6: Install the Second Post

Repeat the same process for the latch post.

Ensure both posts are aligned and level with each other.

Correct spacing is critical for proper gate operation.

Step 7: Attach Field Gate Ironmongery and Hang the Gate

Once the posts have fully set, install your field gate ironmongery including hinges, latch, and fittings.

Attach the hinges securely to the hinge post and hang the gate.

Make final adjustments to ensure smooth opening and closing.

Why Proper Gate Post Installation Matters

Correct installation provides:

• Long-term structural stability

• Prevents gate sagging and misalignment

• Improves safety and security

• Extends the lifespan of both gate and posts

• Reduces maintenance requirements

Properly installed UC4 gate posts using Postmix and post saver sleeves can last decades.

Recommended Gate Post and Installation Products

For a complete installation, we recommend browsing:

• Gate posts including 150mm and 200mm UC4 pressure-treated posts

• Oak gate posts for premium installations

• Postmix concrete

• Post saver sleeves

• Field gate ironmongery

• Wooden field gates

These products are regularly used across Suffolk, Essex, Norfolk, and Cambridgeshire for professional and DIY installations.

Local Supply Across Suffolk, Essex, Norfolk and Cambridgeshire

Clarke Fencing supplies gate posts, Postmix, ironmongery, and field gates across East Anglia. Whether you are installing a garden gate, driveway entrance, or agricultural field gate, we provide high-quality materials suitable for long-term outdoor use.

Our UC4 pressure-treated gate posts and installation products are trusted by homeowners, landscapers, and agricultural customers throughout the region.

Summary

To install gate posts correctly:

• Use 150mm or 200mm UC4 pressure-treated gate posts

• Dig holes minimum 600mm deep

• Use 3 to 5 bags of Postmix per post

• Install post saver sleeves for extended lifespan

• Ensure posts are level and aligned

• Install proper field gate ironmongery

Following these steps ensures your gate installation remains secure, level, and durable for many years.

The post How to Install a Gate Post appeared first on Clarke Fencing.

When it comes to garden design, fencing often plays a secondary role, seen as merely functional rather than a key element of the overall aesthetic. However, with the right choices, your garden boundaries can transform from functional to fabulous, enhancing the beauty and utility of your outdoor space. In this post, we’ll explore how you can elevate your garden fencing with stylish options, creative finishes, and multifunctional designs.

Stylish Panel Options

One of the most effective ways to upgrade your garden boundaries is by choosing stylish panel options. Venetian fence panels, for example, offer a sleek and modern look that blends seamlessly with contemporary garden designs. These panels are not only visually appealing but also practical, as they allow light to filter through while maintaining privacy. The horizontal slats create a sense of openness and space, making them an ideal choice for smaller gardens or urban settings. Shop our European fence panel range for more decorative fence panel ideas.

Painting, Staining & Finishing Touches

The colour and finish of your fence can completely transform the atmosphere of your garden. Whether you opt for a bold, vibrant hue or a subtle, natural stain, the right finish can enhance the overall design and feel of your outdoor space. Painting or staining your fence not only improves its appearance but also provides an additional layer of protection against the elements. Consider adding decorative touches such as finials or post caps to further personalise your fencing and make it truly unique.

Vertical Gardening & Décor

Fences can serve more than just a boundary function; they can also become integral parts of your garden’s design. By incorporating vertical gardening elements, such as trellises, wall planters, or climbing plants, you can create a living wall that adds texture and colour to your space. This approach not only maximises the use of limited space but also enhances the visual appeal of your garden. Additionally, decorative elements like hanging lanterns or outdoor art can add personality and charm to your fencing.

Heavy Duty Diamond Trellis

Traditional Square Trellis

Blending Functionality with Aesthetics

While aesthetics are important, garden fence functionality should not be overlooked. Durable fences, such as those with concrete fence posts, can be designed attractively without compromising strength and stability. Today’s market offers a variety of materials and styles that cater to both durability and design. By selecting materials that complement your garden’s theme and ensuring they are installed by professionals, you can achieve a balance between practicality and beauty.

Conclusion

Upgrading your garden fence design is an excellent way to improve both the look and function of your outdoor space. By considering stylish panel options, experimenting with colours and finishes, and incorporating multifunctional elements, you can transform your garden boundaries into a stunning feature. Clarke Fencing offers bespoke options that cater to your specific needs, ensuring that your garden is both functional and fabulous. Embrace the potential of your garden boundaries and enjoy a beautifully enhanced outdoor space.

Enhance your garden’s aesthetic and functionality today with our bespoke solutions. Explore our range of Venetian fence panels and more to find the perfect fit for your outdoor space.

The post From Functional to Fabulous: Enhancing Your Garden Boundaries appeared first on Clarke Fencing.

Cutting chicken wire (also known as hexagonal wire netting or poultry netting) is straightforward once you know the right technique. Taking a few extra minutes to measure properly and cut neatly will make installation quicker and give you a much cleaner finished fence.

Whether you’re building a chicken run, protecting garden beds, or installing general-purpose wire fencing, following these steps will help you get professional-looking results.

Cutting chicken wire with wire cutters

What you’ll need

Before you start, make sure you have:

• Wire cutters or side cutters (essential)

Shop Stanley Wire Snips – Left, Straight & Right Cut

• Gloves (strongly recommended, wire edges are sharp)

• Measuring tape

• Marker, chalk, or spray paint (optional, for marking cut lines)

• A flat surface or fence rail to work against

If you’re working alone, having a second pair of hands can help keep the wire under tension while cutting.

Step-by-step: How to cut chicken wire

1. Roll out and measure first

Unroll the wire netting along your fence line, rails, or ground where it will be installed. Measure the length you need carefully and allow a small amount of extra wire at each end so you can trim precisely once positioned.

If you’re cutting multiple sections, mark your measurements clearly to avoid waste.

2. Follow the mesh pattern

Instead of cutting randomly across the netting, follow one continuous line of the hexagonal mesh. Snipping along a straight row gives you:

• A cleaner edge

• Easier fixing to posts and rails

• Less twisting and distortion

Cut one wire strand at a time using your cutters, moving steadily along the same line.

3. Keep control of both sides

As you cut, the wire can spring back slightly. Always keep hold of both sides of the netting to prevent sudden movement and avoid scratches or snapped strands.

This is where gloves really help.

4. Tidy sharp ends

Once cut, the wire edges will be sharp. For a safer and neater finish, twist or fold the loose ends back into the mesh using your cutters or gloved hands.

This step is especially important if the fence will be near pets, children, or walkways.

5. Fix straight away

As soon as your section is cut, fix it to your rails or posts while it’s still aligned. Pull the netting tight by hand and secure it using galvanised netting staples, working methodically along each rail.

Staple spacing should be even to prevent sagging and help the fence stay tight over time.

Helpful tips for better results

• Cut with the wire under light tension for cleaner snips

• Always work from one end to the other, not in random sections

• Install from a corner or end post and work along the fence line

• For longer runs, fix one side first, then pull tight before stapling the opposite side

• Store offcuts safely as loose wire can be sharp and easily stepped on

Common mistakes to avoid

• Cutting without measuring properly, leading to short sections

• Leaving sharp wire ends exposed

• Stapling before the netting is pulled tight

• Cutting across the mesh instead of following a straight line

• Trying to cut with blunt tools (this distorts the wire and slows you down)

With the right preparation and tools, chicken wire is quick to work with and extremely versatile. Clean cuts, tidy edges, and consistent fixing will give you a stronger fence and a much more professional finish, whether you’re building a poultry enclosure, garden boundary, or general outdoor fencing system.

Looking for more information on Chicken Wire Fencing?

Read our Larger more comprehensive blog how to install a chicken wire fence.

The post How to Cut Chicken Wire Cleanly and Safely appeared first on Clarke Fencing.

Chicken wire fencing is one of the most versatile and cost-effective ways to create boundaries, protect gardens, or build poultry enclosures. Whether you’re fencing off a vegetable patch, creating a chicken run, or marking out land, the basic system remains the same:

Posts, optional rails, wire netting, and fixings.

In this guide, we walk through each component and explain how they work together to form a strong, practical wire fencing system.

Step 1: Setting Your Posts

Every good fence starts with solid foundations.

Machine round pointed stakes or posts are commonly used because they’re quick to install and provide reliable support for wire fencing systems. The pointed ends allow posts to be driven directly into softer ground, while larger diameter posts offer greater stability for longer runs or taller fences.

Machine Round Pointed Stake

A popular choice for chicken wire fencing is a 1.8m × 75mm machine round pointed post, driven or set to a recommended depth of 600mm (2ft). This leaves approximately 1.2m above ground, which provides a good balance of stability and fence height for poultry enclosures.

For longer service life, applying post saver sleeves to ground-contact posts is strongly recommended, as this helps resist rot at soil level.

Recommended post spacing for Chicken Wire Fencing

• Typically 1.8m (6ft) centres

Corner and end posts take the most load, so ensure these are installed firmly. Posts can either be driven in or dug and set with postmix depending on ground conditions and fence strength requirements.

Step 2 (Optional): Adding Wooden Fence Rails

Once posts are in place, you can choose to add wooden fencing rails. Rails act as fixing points for your wire netting and help distribute tension evenly along the fence line.

For a common chicken fence height of around 1.2m, rails are usually fitted at the top and bottom, depending on the height of netting being used.

Popular options include:

3.66m x 100mm Half Round Fence Rail

87mm x 38mm Timber Fence Rail

Rails significantly improve rigidity, especially on longer runs, and provide multiple fixing points for staples. For fences over 900mm (3ft), adding a middle rail spaced evenly between top and bottom is recommended.

Using rails makes installation easier and results in a stronger, neater finish.

Step 3: Choosing the Right Wire Netting

Chicken wire comes in different mesh sizes depending on what you’re fencing, The most common and standard mesh size for chicken fencing is 25mm (1 Inch) Hexagonal Wire Netting

25mm Pre-Galvanised Chicken Wire

Smaller meshes are ideal for poultry and small animals, while larger meshes suit garden boundaries and general-purpose fencing. Often referred to as chicken wire or poultry netting, pre-galvanised hexagonal wire netting is flexible, easy to handle, and suitable for a wide range of outdoor projects.

Roll the netting out along your fence line, pull it tight against the rails or posts, and prepare to fix it in place.

How to Cut Chicken Wire guide.

Step 4: Fixing with Galvanised Netting Staples

Galvanised netting staples are used to secure wire netting directly to timber posts and rails.

Galvanised Cut Point Staples

Staples are hammered over the wire and into the wood, holding everything firmly in position. Using galvanised fixings helps protect against rust and ensures your fence lasts longer outdoors.

Staples are available in various sizes and bag weights, allowing you to choose the right option depending on rail thickness and project size.

Work methodically along each rail, spacing staples evenly to prevent sagging and keep tension consistent.

Fixing Chicken Wire Direct to Posts vs Using Rails

Option 1: Fix wire directly to posts

For lighter-duty fencing or shorter runs, wire netting can be fixed straight to the posts using galvanised cut point staples. This is quicker and uses fewer materials but provides less rigidity.

Option 2: Fix rails first, then attach wire

For stronger, longer-lasting fences, install wooden rails between posts and fix the wire to the rails instead. This spreads tension across the fence line, reduces movement, and gives a cleaner, more professional finish.

Rails are especially recommended for:

• Longer fence runs

• Taller fencing

• Permanent installations

• Areas exposed to wind or livestock pressure

Typical Uses for Wire Fencing

Chicken Wire Stapled on to Half Round Rails

Wire Mesh Fencing with Machine Round Posts

This type of fencing system is widely used for:

• Garden boundaries and plant protection

• Chicken runs and poultry enclosures

• Light agricultural fencing

• Landscaping projects

• General outdoor and DIY applications

Its flexibility makes it ideal for both trade and domestic customers.

Final Thoughts

A strong wire netting fence isn’t about one product, it’s about using the right combination:

• Machine round pointed posts for support

• Treated wooden fence rails for structure

• Wire netting for containment

• Galvanised staples for secure fixing

When installed correctly, this simple system creates a durable, practical fence suitable for countless outdoor applications.

If you’re planning a project, make sure you have all components ready before starting. It saves time on site and ensures a cleaner, stronger result.

You can also read our guide on how to cut chicken wire for clean edges and easier installation.

The post How to Install a Chicken Wire Fence appeared first on Clarke Fencing.