Choosing the right garden gate ironmongery is just as important as choosing the garden gate itself. The correct hinges, latch and fixings will ensure your gate opens smoothly, closes securely and remains properly supported over time.

For most wooden garden gates, you’ll need a pair of suitable gate hinges, a latch and the correct fixings. Depending on the size and purpose of the gate, you may also want to add a gate bolt, cabin hook or other security hardware.

In this guide, we’ll explain the main types of garden gate ironmongery, what each component does and how to choose the right combination for your gate.

What Ironmongery Does a Garden Gate Need?

The exact hardware you need will depend on the size, weight and style of your gate, but a typical wooden garden gate will require:

• Gate hinges to support the gate and allow it to open and close
• Gate latches & catches to hold the gate securely closed
• Gate bolts if additional security is required
• Gate Key Locks allowing you to lock the gate from both sides
• Gate handles for easy opening and closing

Larger and heavier gates may require heavier-duty or adjustable ironmongery to properly support their additional weight.

Choosing the Right Hinges for a Garden Gate

Gate hinges are one of the most important pieces of ironmongery you’ll need. Using hinges that are too small or lightweight for the gate can cause it to drop or become difficult to operate.

There are several common options for wooden garden gates.

T-Hinges

T-hinges are commonly used for smaller and lighter wooden garden gates. Their simple design makes them straightforward to install, with the long section of the hinge fixed horizontally across the gate.

Tee Hinges (Pre-packed with fixings)

They are available in different lengths and finishes, making them suitable for a wide range of standard garden gates.

Hook and Band Hinges

Hook and band hinges are a popular choice for larger or heavier wooden gates.

Straight Band & Hook on Plate (Pre-packed with fixings)

The long band spreads the load across the gate, while the hook or pin provides the pivot point. This makes them particularly suitable where additional support is required.

When choosing hook and band hinges, make sure the size and weight of the gate are taken into consideration rather than simply choosing based on appearance.

Adjustable Gate Hinges

Adjustable hinges are particularly useful for heavier gates or installations where you may need to make small adjustments after the gate has been fitted.

Adjustable Bands & Hooks on Plate (Pre-packed with fixings)

Being able to adjust the position of the gate can help compensate for minor movement or dropping over time without having to completely remove and rehang it.

Shop our range of gate hinges →

What Size Hinges Do I Need for a Garden Gate?

The correct hinge size depends on the width, weight and construction of the gate.

As a general principle, the wider and heavier the gate, the more substantial the hinges should be.

A small pedestrian garden gate may only require standard T-hinges, whereas a large solid timber gate will usually benefit from longer, heavier-duty hook and band hinges.

It’s always worth checking the manufacturer’s recommendations for the particular hinge and gate you’re purchasing.

If you’re unsure which hinges are suitable, our team can help you choose the correct ironmongery for your gate.

Choosing a Garden Gate Latch

Once you’ve chosen your hinges, you’ll need a way of keeping the gate closed.

There are several different types of gate latch available, with the best choice depending on how you want the gate to operate and whether security is important.

Ring Gate Latches

Ring gate latches are a popular option for traditional wooden garden gates.

Ring Gate Latch (Pre-packed with fixings)

The ring handle allows the gate to be operated from either side and gives the gate a traditional appearance.

They’re particularly popular for side gates, garden entrances and pedestrian gates.

Suffolk Gate Latches

A Suffolk latch is another traditional option commonly used on wooden gates.

Suffolk Latch (Pre-packed with fixings)

The thumb-operated mechanism provides a simple way of opening the gate while maintaining a classic appearance.

Automatic Gate Latches

Automatic gate latches are designed to catch when the gate closes. But can only be opened from one side, often used on 4ft gates or smaller where you can reach over.

Auto Gate Catch (Pre-packed with fixings)

They’re a simple and practical choice for garden gates where convenience is more important than security and decorative appearance.

Shop gate latches →

Do I Need a Bolt on My Garden Gate?

A bolt isn’t essential for every garden gate, but it can provide additional security or help keep a gate firmly closed.

Common options include Brenton bolts, tower bolts and sliding gate bolts.

Brenton Padbolts (Pre-packed with fixings)

For a side gate providing access to a rear garden, adding a bolt can be particularly useful if you want an additional method of securing the entrance.

For double gates, a drop bolt can also be used to secure one gate leaf into the ground while the second closes against it.

Shop Gate Bolts →

Do I Need a Cabin Hook?

A cabin hook is a simple but useful addition to a garden gate.

It allows you to secure the gate in an open position, preventing it from swinging closed while you’re moving garden equipment, wheelbarrows, bins or other items through the opening.

Cabin hooks are available in different lengths, so choose one that allows the gate to be conveniently secured against a wall, fence or post.

Galvanised or Black Gate Ironmongery?

Gate ironmongery is commonly available in galvanised or black finishes.

Galvanised Gate Ironmongery

Galvanised ironmongery has a protective zinc coating designed to help protect the steel against corrosion.

It’s a practical choice for outdoor gates where durability and weather resistance are the priority.

Black Gate Ironmongery

Black ironmongery provides a more decorative finish and works particularly well with traditional timber gates.

Many quality black gate fittings are manufactured from galvanised steel with an additional black coating, providing both protection and a more decorative appearance.

Your choice will therefore often come down to the appearance you want for the finished gate.

What Ironmongery Do I Need for a Heavy Wooden Gate?

Heavy wooden gates require more substantial hardware than lightweight pedestrian gates.

For a larger gate, consider using:

• Heavy-duty hook and band hinges
• Adjustable hinges
• Heavy-duty gate latch
• Suitable bolts or locking hardware
• Fixings appropriate for the gate and supporting post

The supporting gate post is equally important. Even the strongest hinges won’t prevent a gate from dropping if the post itself isn’t sufficiently strong or securely installed.

For particularly large field or driveway gates, you should choose hardware specifically designed for that type and weight of gate.

Garden Gate Ironmongery Checklist

Before installing your garden gate, check that you have everything required for the job.

It’s also worth checking whether your chosen ironmongery is supplied with fixings, as this varies between products.

Buy Garden Gate Ironmongery from Clarke Fencing

At Clarke Fencing, we stock a wide range of garden gate ironmongery for pedestrian gates, side gates, field gates and larger timber gates.

Our range includes gate hinges, ring latches, Suffolk latches, bolts, cabin hooks and adjustable gate fittings, with options available in galvanised and black finishes.

You can also purchase your garden gate, gate posts and ironmongery together, making it easier to get everything required for the installation in one order.

Based in Stowmarket, Suffolk, Clarke Fencing supplies fencing, gates and landscaping materials to homeowners, landscapers and trade professionals throughout Suffolk and across East Anglia.

Shop Garden Gate Ironmongery →

Not sure which fittings you need? Contact the Clarke Fencing team and we’ll help you choose suitable ironmongery for your gate.

The post What Ironmongery Do I Need for a Garden Gate? appeared first on Clarke Fencing.

The GateMate Adjustable Steel Gate Frame Kit provides a strong, adjustable framework for building bespoke timber garden gates. Instead of relying solely on timber rails for the structure of the gate, the kit uses a robust steel frame which can be adjusted to suit different gate widths and heights before being clad with your choice of timber boards.

Suitable for both new gates and bespoke build-on-site projects, the adjustable design allows you to create a timber gate to suit openings from 700mm to 1200mm wide and 1250mm to 1950mm high.

Why Use a Steel Frame for a Timber Gate?

Traditional timber gates rely on their timber framework to provide structural strength. Over time, changes in moisture, weather conditions and the weight of the gate can contribute to movement.

The GateMate Adjustable Steel Gate Frame creates a rigid internal structure onto which timber rails and your chosen gate boards can be fitted.

The telescopic frame also makes it particularly useful when you need to construct a bespoke-sized timber gate rather than relying on a standard off-the-shelf gate size.

Key Benefits

• Adjustable from 700mm to 1200mm wide
• Adjustable from 1250mm to 1950mm high
• Strong box-section steel construction
• Suitable for bespoke timber gates
• Adjustable gate eyes included
• Suitable for timber or steel gate posts
• Can be clad with your choice of timber boards
• Compatible with a GateMate Euro Long Throw Lock
• Black powder-coated finish

What Size Gate Can You Build?

One of the main advantages of the GateMate steel gate frame is its telescopic construction.

The frame can be adjusted within the following dimensions:

Each section slides telescopically into the adjoining section. Once the required dimensions have been set and the frame checked for square, the supplied grub screws secure the sections in position.

This makes the kit particularly useful for unusual openings where a standard-sized timber gate may not be suitable.

How Is the GateMate Adjustable Gate Frame Constructed?

The outer telescopic sections of the frame are manufactured from 35mm x 35mm square hollow-section steel, while the inner telescopic sections use 30mm x 30mm square hollow section.

The corner and T-joints are fully welded before being linished, polished and coated.

Gatemate Adjustable Steel Gate Frame Kit | Black

For corrosion protection, the steel receives a Dacromet® zinc coating followed by a black RAL 9005 powder-coated finish. The coated frame has been salt-spray tested in-house to 500 hours.

What’s Included in the Gate Frame Kit?

The kit contains the main components and fixings required to assemble and hang the adjustable steel framework:

• 4 steel corner joints
• 2 steel centre T-joints
• 2 top/bottom telescopic connectors
• 1 centre telescopic connector
• 2 hook-on plates
• 2 gate eyes with washers, nuts and bolts
• 8 x 6 x 50mm countersunk timber screws
• 13 x 6 x 100mm wafer-head timber screws
• 10 grub screws
• 8 hex-head self-drilling screws

Timber rails and timber cladding are not included and can be selected separately to create the appearance and finish required.

How to Build a Timber Gate Using the GateMate Steel Frame

1. Lay Out the Steel Gate Frame

Position all sections of the frame on a flat working surface. The individual sections slide together telescopically, allowing both the height and width to be adjusted.

2. Adjust the Frame to the Required Gate Size

Measure the required finished height and width of your gate and extend or reduce the telescopic sections accordingly.

Make sure the frame remains square. The top and bottom widths should be adjusted equally, as should both vertical sides.

Once correctly positioned, tighten the supplied grub screws to secure the frame.

3. Install the Gate Eyes

Fit the supplied adjustable gate eyes to the steel frame.

These can be fine-tuned later by loosening or tightening the hex nuts, giving you additional adjustment when hanging and aligning the finished gate.

4. Fit the Timber Gate Rails

Timber rails are then fixed to the steel frame using the supplied wafer-head timber screws.

The front face of each timber rail should sit flush with the front of the gate frame.

38mm x 90mm timber rails are recommended by the manufacturer.

For gates over 1800mm high, consider using five timber rails rather than three to provide additional fixing points for the timber cladding.

5. Add Your Timber Gate Boards

Once the rails are installed, the front of the gate can be clad using your chosen timber boards.

Fix each board securely through into the timber rails. Depending on the appearance you’re trying to achieve, the boards can finish flush with the edge of the steel frame or overlap it.

This gives you the freedom to create a gate that complements your existing fencing.

Adjustable Gate Frame Cladded with Timber

6. Hang the Finished Gate

The completed gate can be hung from either suitable timber or steel gate posts using the supplied hook-on plates.

For timber posts, use the supplied timber screws.

For steel posts, use the supplied self-drilling fixings.

Once hung, make final adjustments using the adjustable gate eyes until the gate sits and operates correctly.

Can You Fit a Long Throw Gate Lock?

Yes. The adjustable steel frame can be used with a compatible GateMate Euro Long Throw Lock and mounting plate.

Euro Profile Long Throw Lock

Euro Long Throw Lock Mounting Kit

The mounting plate locates within the steel frame and provides a secure mounting position for the lock mechanism.

The timber cladding must be drilled in the appropriate position for the lock cylinder using the template supplied with the compatible lock.

This makes it possible to combine the strength of the steel gate frame with a convenient lockable gate solution.

What Timber Do I Need for the Gate?

The steel kit creates the structural frame, but timber rails and cladding are purchased separately.

The manufacturer recommends 38mm x 90mm timber for the horizontal rails. You can then choose suitable timber boards for the face of the gate depending on the appearance you’re trying to achieve.

Buying the timber separately also gives you much more control over the finished gate, allowing the same adjustable frame to be used to create different styles of timber gate.

Is the GateMate Adjustable Steel Gate Frame Worth It?

The GateMate Adjustable Steel Gate Frame is particularly useful if you want the appearance of a traditional timber gate while incorporating a strong steel framework.

Its adjustable dimensions make it especially well suited to bespoke gate openings, replacement gates and projects where standard gate sizes don’t quite fit.

With adjustment between 700–1200mm wide and 1250–1950mm high, the same kit can be configured for a wide range of pedestrian and garden gate installations.

GateMate Adjustable Steel Gate Frame FAQs

What is the maximum width of the GateMate adjustable gate frame?

The maximum gate frame width is 1200mm, with a minimum adjustable width of 700mm.

What is the maximum height?

The frame can be adjusted up to 1950mm high, with a minimum height of 1250mm.

Does the kit include the timber?

No. The timber rails and timber boards used to clad the gate are purchased separately, allowing you to choose the timber and finished appearance of your gate.

What size timber rails should I use?

The manufacturer recommends 38mm x 90mm timber rails. For gates above 1800mm high, five rails should be considered instead of three.

Can the frame be fitted to timber gate posts?

Yes. The kit can be hung from suitable timber posts using the supplied hook-on plates and timber fixings.

Can it be fitted to steel posts?

Yes. Self-drilling fixings are supplied for installation onto suitable steel posts.

Is the steel frame adjustable after installation?

The gate eyes provide adjustment once the gate has been hung, helping with the final positioning and alignment of the gate.

Adjustable Eyes on Adjustable Gate Frame

Is the frame supplied in black?

Yes. The frame has a Dacromet® zinc coating followed by a RAL 9005 black powder-coated finish.

Can I fit a lock to the gate?

The frame can accommodate a compatible GateMate Euro Long Throw Lock using the appropriate mounting plate and installation method.

The post GateMate Adjustable Steel Gate Frame Kit Guide appeared first on Clarke Fencing.

Planed All Round Batten Screening

If you are buying timber for a fencing, landscaping, joinery, or DIY project, you may have seen terms like PAR timber and PSE timber and wondered what the difference actually is.

These are two of the most commonly searched timber terms in the UK, especially for customers looking to build garden structures, fencing, decking, furniture, shelving, or interior woodwork.

In this guide, we explain:

• What PAR timber means
• What PSE timber means
• The differences between PAR and PSE timber
• Which option is best for your project
• Common timber sizes and applications
• Where to buy quality timber online

If you are looking for high-quality timber products, browse our ranges here:

• Timber Products
• C24 Structural Timber
• Rails & Timber Battens

What Does PAR Timber Mean?

PAR stands for “Planed All Round.”

This means the timber has been machine planed smooth on all four sides.

PAR timber is designed to create a cleaner, smoother, and more professional finish compared to rough-sawn timber.

It is commonly used where:

• Appearance matters
• Timber will be visible
• A smooth finish is required
• Customers want reduced splintering

PAR timber is popular for:

• Interior joinery
• Shelving
• Furniture
• Decorative garden projects
• Pergolas
• Slatted fencing
• Timber framing details

Because the timber is planed smooth, the finished dimensions are slightly smaller than the original sawn size.

What Does PSE Timber Mean?

PSE stands for: Planed Square Edge

PSE timber is effectively a type of PAR timber.

The key difference is that:

• PSE timber is planed smooth
• The edges are left square rather than rounded or moulded

In most cases, PAR and PSE are used interchangeably in the timber trade.

When customers search for:

• PAR timber
• PSE timber
• Smooth-planed timber

…they are often looking for the same type of product.

PAR vs PSE Timber: What’s The Difference?

The difference is usually very minor.

In reality:

• Most PSE timber is also PAR timber
• PSE simply highlights the square edge profile

Many suppliers use the terms interchangeably.

Why Choose PAR Timber?

Planed all round timber is ideal for projects where appearance and finish matter.

Benefits include:

• Smooth professional finish
• Easier to paint or stain
• Reduced splinters
• Cleaner modern appearance
• Easier handling
• Better for visible applications

It is especially popular in:

• Modern landscaping
• Horizontal slatted fencing
• Pergolas
• Garden screens
• Interior DIY projects

Browse timber suitable for these projects here:

• Timber Rails & Battens
• Outdoor Living Products

When Should You Use Rough Sawn Timber Instead?

Rough sawn timber is often better for:

• Structural fencing
• Agricultural projects
• Heavy-duty outdoor construction
• Budget-conscious builds
• Rustic aesthetics

It is usually:

• Cheaper
• Stronger-looking
• More traditional in appearance

For example:

• Closeboard fencing
• Post and rail fencing
• Feather edge fencing

Related products:

• Closeboard Fencing Materials
• Fence Posts

Is PAR Timber Treated?

Planed all round timber can be:

• Untreated
• Pressure treated
• Kiln dried
• Internal grade
• External grade

For outdoor projects, always choose:

• Pressure treated timber
• Exterior-grade timber

This helps protect against:

• Rot
• Moisture
• Fungal decay
• Insect attack

For structural outdoor projects, treated timber is essential.

Common Uses For PAR & PSE Timber

Horizontal Slatted Fencing

Smooth planed battens create modern contemporary fencing designs.

Pergolas & Garden Structures

PAR timber creates a much cleaner finish for visible garden structures.

Related:

• Pergolas & Outdoor Living

Shelving & DIY Projects

PSE timber is widely used for:

• Shelving
• Benches
• Storage projects
• Furniture
• Garage fit-outs

Timber Framing & Joinery

Planed timber is often used for:

• Studwork finishing details
• Decorative trims
• Timber framing
• Internal woodworking

Related:

• C24 Timber

What Sizes Does PAR Timber Come In?

Common PAR timber sizes include:

• 25mm x 50mm
• 50mm x 75mm
• 50mm x 100mm
• 50mm x 150mm
• 50mm x 200mm

Remember:
Finished planed sizes are smaller than the original sawn sizes.

For example:

• 47mm x 75mm sawn timber may finish around 45mm x 70mm once planed.

Is Planed Timber More Expensive?

Yes, PAR timber is generally more expensive than rough sawn timber because it undergoes additional machining and finishing.

However, many customers feel the benefits justify the extra cost due to:

• Improved appearance
• Easier handling
• Less preparation work
• Better finished result

PAR Timber vs CLS Timber

Customers often compare PAR timber with CLS timber.

PAR Timber

• Smooth finish
• Often square-edged
• Used for visible applications

CLS Timber

• Rounded edges
• Primarily structural
• Common in stud walls and framing

CLS is more construction-focused, while PAR is usually chosen for appearance.

How To Maintain Planed Timber Outdoors

To maximise lifespan:

• Use pressure-treated timber
• Avoid standing water
• Maintain airflow around timber
• Reapply protective treatment when needed
• Use galvanised or stainless fixings

Good installation dramatically improves longevity.

Related Timber Guides

You may also find these guides helpful:

• What Is C24 Timber? C24 vs C16 Explained
• How To Build a Horizontal Slatted Fence
• Garden Fence Explained

Buy Quality Timber Online

At Clarke Fencing, we supply a wide range of timber products suitable for landscaping, fencing, construction, and DIY projects.

Our range includes:

• C24 structural timber
• Timber battens and rails
• Fence posts
• Decking timber
• Sleepers and landscaping timber

Whether you are building modern slatted fencing, pergolas, shelving, or structural outdoor projects, our team can help you choose the right timber for the job.

The post What is PAR Timber? PAR vs PSE Answered appeared first on Clarke Fencing.

When installing a patio or paving project, the finish of your joints is just as important as the slabs themselves. Poor jointing can lead to weeds, movement, and water damage over time. That is where EASYJoint comes in.

EASYJoint is one of the UK’s most popular patio jointing compounds, designed to make pointing paving quick, clean, and long-lasting. Whether you are a DIY homeowner or a professional landscaper, it offers a faster and more reliable alternative to traditional sand and cement.

EASYJoint Stone Grey

EASYJoint Mushroom

EASYJoint Buff Sand

EASYJoint Basalt

In this guide, we explain what EASYJoint is, how it works, where to use it, and why it has become a go-to solution for patios and pathways.

What is EASYJoint?

EASYJoint is an all-weather, sweep-in jointing compound used to fill the gaps between paving slabs. It is a permeable material that allows water to drain through the joints, helping to prevent water build-up and long-term damage.

Unlike traditional mortar, EASYJoint is applied using water to create a slurry that is brushed into the joints, making installation significantly easier and quicker.

It is commonly used for:

• Patios
• Garden paths
• Courtyards
• Domestic landscaping projects

Why Choose EASYJoint Over Traditional Pointing?

1. Fast and Easy Installation

EASYJoint is designed to be applied quickly with minimal tools. You simply wet the paving, pour the compound, and sweep it into the joints.

This makes it ideal for:

• DIY installations
• Large patio areas
• Time-sensitive jobs

2. All-Weather Application

Unlike traditional pointing, EASYJoint can be applied in most weather conditions, making it far more flexible for UK projects.

3. Permeable and Drainage-Friendly

EASYJoint allows water to pass through the joints rather than sit on the surface. This reduces:

• Standing water
• Frost damage
• Long-term joint failure

However, it must be installed on a free-draining base to perform correctly.

4. Strong and Durable Finish

Once cured, EASYJoint forms a solid, durable joint suitable for:

• Pedestrian traffic
• Light domestic use

It becomes firm enough to walk on within around 24 hours in good conditions.

5. Cleaner Finish Than Traditional Mortar

Because EASYJoint is applied wet and swept in, it reduces mess and helps avoid staining when installed correctly with plenty of water.

Where Can You Use EASYJoint?

EASYJoint is suitable for most paving types, including:

• Natural stone paving
• Concrete slabs
• Porcelain paving (with correct method)

However, there are some important limitations:

Suitable Conditions

• Minimum joint width: 3mm
• Minimum joint depth: 20mm
• Free-draining sub-base required

Not Suitable For

• Traditional block paving (too narrow joints)
• Areas with poor drainage or standing water
• Most driveways (use EASYJoint Pro instead)

How to Use EASYJoint (Step-by-Step)

1. Prepare the Area

• Ensure paving is clean and joints are clear
• Check the base is free-draining

2. Pre-Soak the Paving

The wetter the surface, the better. Water prevents staining and helps the compound flow properly.

3. Apply the Compound

• Pour EASYJoint onto the paving
• Add water to create a slurry

4. Sweep Into Joints

Use a broom or squeegee to work the compound into the gaps.

5. Finish the Joints

• Compact or “iron” the joints for strength and appearance
• Remove excess material

6. Clean the Surface

Wash thoroughly until no residue remains. This prevents marking and ensures a clean finish.

How Long Does EASYJoint Take to Set?

• Walkable: approx. 24 hours (in dry conditions)
• Fully cured: a few days

Cold or wet weather will slow the curing process, but it will still set once conditions improve.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

To get the best results, avoid these common issues:

• ❌ Using on a non-draining base
• ❌ Not using enough water during application
• ❌ Applying in very narrow joints
• ❌ Not cleaning the surface properly
• ❌ Using on driveways instead of the correct product

These mistakes can lead to joint failure or surface staining.

Maintenance and Aftercare

EASYJoint is low maintenance but benefits from occasional cleaning.

• Light pressure washing can remove dirt and algae
• Avoid pressure washing for at least 4 weeks after installation
• Annual cleaning helps maintain appearance

Because it is permeable, some natural colour changes or minor algae growth may occur over time. This is normal and does not affect performance.

EASYJoint vs Traditional Sand and Cement

Is EASYJoint Worth It?

For most patio and garden projects, EASYJoint is a smart investment. It saves time, improves finish quality, and reduces the risk of long-term issues when installed correctly.

It is especially ideal for:

• Homeowners installing patios
• Landscapers working on multiple jobs
• Anyone wanting a clean, professional finish without the hassle of mortar

Need More Installation Advice?

Check out our full EASYJoint Installation Guide

Final Thoughts

EASYJoint has become a trade favourite for a reason. It simplifies one of the most time-consuming parts of paving while delivering strong, long-lasting results.

If you are planning a new patio or upgrading existing paving, using a high-quality jointing compound like EASYJoint can make a significant difference to both appearance and durability.

The post What is EASYJoint? The Complete Guide to Patio Jointing Compound appeared first on Clarke Fencing.

When choosing a new garden fence, the terms closeboard and featheredge are often used interchangeably. While they are closely related, they are not the same thing. Understanding the difference helps you choose the right fencing system for your garden, budget, and durability requirements.

In this guide, we explain what closeboard fencing is, what featheredge boards are, and how they work together.

What Is Featheredge Fencing?

Featheredge refers to the individual vertical boards used to build a fence. Each board is tapered, meaning it is thicker on one edge and thinner on the other. When installed, the boards overlap to create a solid and weather-resistant fence.

Featheredge boards are not a complete fence on their own. They are a component that forms part of a closeboard fencing system.

Key Features of Featheredge Boards

• Tapered timber boards, thicker on one side

• Installed vertically with an overlap

• Typically fixed to horizontal rails

• Pressure-treated for outdoor durability

• Commonly used for strong, traditional garden fencing

Because featheredge boards are installed individually, they allow for flexibility when fencing uneven or sloping ground. Damaged boards can also be replaced one at a time without removing an entire panel.

What Is Closeboard Fencing?

Closeboard fencing is the full fencing system made using featheredge boards. It includes posts, rails, gravel boards, and featheredge boards working together to create a strong and long-lasting fence.

In simple terms:

• Featheredge is the board

• Closeboard is the fence

Closeboard fencing is sometimes called featheredge fencing, but technically, closeboard refers to the full construction method rather than the boards themselves.

Components of a Closeboard Fence

A traditional closeboard fence usually consists of:

• Fence posts, timber, or concrete

• Gravel boards at ground level

• Horizontal can’t rails fixed between posts

• Vertical featheredge boards overlapped and fixed to the rails

• Optional capping rail for a finished look

This system is widely used in the UK for garden boundaries, privacy fencing, and exposed locations where strength matters.

The post What Is the Difference Between Closeboard and Featheredge Fencing? appeared first on Clarke Fencing.

Building a raised bed using railway sleepers is one of the easiest and most effective ways to create a beautiful, low-maintenance garden feature. Whether you’re growing vegetables, flowers, or decorative shrubs, sleeper beds provide structure, drainage, and long-lasting strength — perfect for both modern and traditional garden designs.

At Clarke Fencing, we stock a full range of railway sleepers including oak, softwood, and reclaimed timber options — ideal for creating raised beds, garden borders, and retaining walls.

Why Choose Railway Sleepers for Raised Beds?

Sleepers are strong, durable, and easy to work with. Their rectangular shape allows for quick assembly and straight, uniform edges. Pressure-treated softwood sleepers offer excellent value and protection against rot, while oak or reclaimed sleepers provide a rustic, premium finish.

Key Benefits:

• Long-lasting and sturdy construction

• Natural timber look suits all garden styles

• Easy to build with basic tools

• Customisable size and height to suit your space

• Improved drainage and soil depth for healthy plant growth

Choosing the Right Type of Sleeper

Clarke Fencing supplies a variety of sleepers in different materials and sizes:

• Softwood Sleepers – Pressure-treated for durability and available in lengths like 1m, 2.4m, and 3m. Great for easy cutting and lighter weight.

• Oak Sleepers – Naturally dense hardwood with a rich, rustic appearance ideal for premium gardens.

• Reclaimed Sleepers – Weathered and characterful, perfect for a traditional or cottage-style garden look.

Tools and Materials You’ll Need

Materials:

• 4–8 railway sleepers (depending on bed size)

• Decking screws or timber coach screws

• Corner brackets or timber stakes (optional)

• Weed membrane

• Topsoil and compost mix

Tools:

• Spirit level

• Drill and long drill bit

• Saw (if cutting sleepers)

• Tape measure

• Screwdriver or impact driver

Step-by-Step: How to Build a Raised Bed

Step 1 – Plan Your Layout

Choose a sunny, level area of your garden. Decide on the shape — rectangular and square are the easiest to construct.
A common raised bed size is 1.2m x 2.4m, which allows easy access from both sides.

Lay out your sleepers on the ground to check fit and alignment before you start fixing them together.

Step 2 – Prepare the Ground

Remove any grass, roots, or debris. You can either:

• Level the ground with a spade, or

• Excavate slightly and lay a weed control membrane to stop weeds growing through the bed.

If you’re installing on a patio or concrete area, simply build the frame on top — no digging required.

Step 3 – Build the Frame

Lay out your first layer of sleepers in position. Use a spirit level to ensure they sit flat.
Fix each corner using timber screws or coach bolts for strength — pre-drill the holes to prevent splitting.

For higher beds, stack a second or third layer of sleepers on top, offsetting the joints for added stability. Secure each layer with screws or long timber dowels.

If extra reinforcement is needed, fit corner brackets inside or drive timber stakes into the ground at each corner.

Step 4 – Line the Inside

Although treated sleepers resist rot, lining the inside helps prolong lifespan. Use a weed membrane or heavy-duty landscaping fabric, stapled to the inside walls, to prevent soil contact with the timber.

Step 5 – Fill and Plant

Add a layer of gravel or rubble at the bottom for drainage, followed by a mix of topsoil and compost.
You’re now ready to plant — whether it’s herbs, vegetables, or flowering plants.

For deeper-rooted crops, consider building higher sides (three sleepers high gives around 600mm depth).

Maintenance Tips

• Apply a timber treatment or oil every 1–2 years to maintain colour and weather protection.

• Avoid using old creosote-treated railway sleepers, as these can leach chemicals.

• Check corner fixings occasionally and tighten if required.

Related Products

Complete your raised bed project with our range of landscaping materials:

• Sleepers – Oak, softwood, and reclaimed options.

• Topsoil & Aggregates – Perfect for filling and levelling.

• Decking Screws – For secure timber joining.

• Weed Control Membrane – Keeps your bed low maintenance.

For decorative finishes, you can also edge your raised bed area with sleepers for garden edging — ideal for paths or flower borders.

Helpful External Guides

For more inspiration and planting advice, explore:

• RHS – Building Raised Beds

• BBC Gardeners’ World – Raised Bed Ideas

• Homebuilding & Renovating – Garden Design Projects

Final Thoughts

Building a raised bed with railway sleepers is a simple weekend project that instantly transforms your garden. With strong, natural timber and minimal tools, you can create attractive, functional planting spaces that last for years.

Explore Clarke Fencing’s full range of railway sleepers to get started — available in oak, softwood, and reclaimed options, all pressure-treated and ready for your next garden project.

The post How to Make a Raised Bed with Railway Sleepers appeared first on Clarke Fencing.

Introduction: Why Fence Posts Fail

Wooden fence posts are one of the most common failure points in any fence line. Over time, timber posts can rot at ground level where moisture sits in the soil, eventually weakening the fence until it leans or breaks. High winds and poor drainage can accelerate this process.

Replacing an entire post or fence line can be costly and disruptive — especially if access is limited or the fence still has plenty of life left in its panels and rails. This is where a concrete repair spur becomes the ideal solution.

What is a Concrete Repair Spur?

A concrete repair spur is a 1.2m (4ft) reinforced concrete post, usually 100mm x 100mm square, with three pre-drilled fixing holes. It is designed to be concreted into the ground right next to a damaged timber post.

Once set in position, the spur is bolted to the failing post using coach screws and washers, effectively bracing it and pulling the fence line back upright. Instead of replacing the whole post, you’re adding a permanent concrete support that takes over the load.

Why Choose a Repair Spur Instead of a New Post?

• Cost-effective → Installing a spur can extend the lifespan of a fence by 5–10 years, avoiding the need for full replacement.

• Less disruption → Panels, rails, gravel boards, and capping can remain in place — you only need access to one side of the fence.

• Time saving → A spur can be installed in less than an hour once the hole is dug.

• Durability → Reinforced concrete is weatherproof and rot-proof, unlike timber.

• Sustainability → By repairing instead of replacing, you reduce waste and the need for new timber.

• Future prevention → New posts can be protected with Postsaver Sleeves to stop ground-level rot.

Step-by-Step Guide: How to Fit a Concrete Repair Spur

1. Assess the Post

Check if the fence is worth repairing. If panels, rails, and gravel boards are still in good condition, a spur is ideal. If everything is failing, full replacement may be better.

2. Dig the Hole

• Dig directly next to the damaged post, ideally at the front.

• Depth: at least 2ft (60cm) to ensure stability.

• Go slightly below the rot line so fresh concrete sets beneath the weak section.

• Leave room behind the spur for the Post Mix to pack in and hold it securely.

3. Position the Spur

• Place the 1.2m concrete spur tight against the wooden post.

• Use a level to check it is vertical in both directions.

• The pre-drilled holes should align to the mid-section of the timber post.

4. Concrete into Place

• Use 1.5–2 bags of Post Mix per spur.

• Pour Post Mix around the spur and add water as directed.

• Keep the spur upright and snug against the wooden post while the mix sets.

• Allow at least 10–15 minutes for initial firming.

5. Realign the Fence

• As the mix firms, gently pull the leaning post back upright against the spur.

• This restores the line of the fence without dismantling panels or rails.

6. Bolt the Spur to the Post

• Use 3 × M10 x 180mm coach screws and M10 square washers.

• Drill through the spur’s fixing holes into the timber post (at least 80mm penetration).

• Tighten the screws gradually — the washers spread the force and stop splitting.

• As you tighten, the post is pulled firmly against the spur.

FAQ: Common Questions About Repair Spurs

How deep should a repair spur be set?

A: At least 2ft (60cm) deep. This depth provides the stability needed to support the leaning post and resist wind loads.

How many bags of Post Mix do I need?

A: Typically 1.5–2 bags per spur. More may be required in sandy or loose soil conditions to ensure a solid hold.

Can I fit a repair spur without removing panels?

A: Yes — one of the main benefits of repair spurs is that they can be installed from one side without dismantling panels, rails, or gravel boards.

Will the fence look odd with a spur?

A: Not at all. Concrete repair spurs are slim and sit flush to the post. Many homeowners prefer the appearance of a reinforced spur over a leaning fence.

How long will a repair spur last?

A: Being concrete and rot-proof, repair spurs are designed to last for decades — often outliving the rest of the fence.

The Key Use Cases for Repair Spurs

• Rotten timber posts at ground level.

• Leaning fences caused by wind damage.

• Limited access fences where replacing posts is impractical.

• Budget-conscious repairs where replacing an entire fence line isn’t necessary.

Final Thoughts

Concrete repair spurs are one of the simplest and most cost-effective ways to restore a failing fence post. Instead of replacing whole sections, you can strengthen the existing structure, save money, and extend the life of your fence by years.

With just a spade, level, Post Mix, and coach screws, a single person can complete the repair in under an hour. For homeowners and tradespeople alike, repair spurs are a smart choice for keeping fences upright and strong without the cost of full replacement.

The post Concrete Repair Spurs: How They Work and How to Install Them appeared first on Clarke Fencing.

Garden Fence Types Explained 

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