Planed All Round Batten Screening

If you are buying timber for a fencing, landscaping, joinery, or DIY project, you may have seen terms like PAR timber and PSE timber and wondered what the difference actually is.

These are two of the most commonly searched timber terms in the UK, especially for customers looking to build garden structures, fencing, decking, furniture, shelving, or interior woodwork.

In this guide, we explain:

• What PAR timber means
• What PSE timber means
• The differences between PAR and PSE timber
• Which option is best for your project
• Common timber sizes and applications
• Where to buy quality timber online

If you are looking for high-quality timber products, browse our ranges here:

• Timber Products
• C24 Structural Timber
• Rails & Timber Battens

What Does PAR Timber Mean?

PAR stands for “Planed All Round.”

This means the timber has been machine planed smooth on all four sides.

PAR timber is designed to create a cleaner, smoother, and more professional finish compared to rough-sawn timber.

It is commonly used where:

• Appearance matters
• Timber will be visible
• A smooth finish is required
• Customers want reduced splintering

PAR timber is popular for:

• Interior joinery
• Shelving
• Furniture
• Decorative garden projects
• Pergolas
• Slatted fencing
• Timber framing details

Because the timber is planed smooth, the finished dimensions are slightly smaller than the original sawn size.

What Does PSE Timber Mean?

PSE stands for: Planed Square Edge

PSE timber is effectively a type of PAR timber.

The key difference is that:

• PSE timber is planed smooth
• The edges are left square rather than rounded or moulded

In most cases, PAR and PSE are used interchangeably in the timber trade.

When customers search for:

• PAR timber
• PSE timber
• Smooth-planed timber

…they are often looking for the same type of product.

PAR vs PSE Timber: What’s The Difference?

The difference is usually very minor.

In reality:

• Most PSE timber is also PAR timber
• PSE simply highlights the square edge profile

Many suppliers use the terms interchangeably.

Why Choose PAR Timber?

Planed all round timber is ideal for projects where appearance and finish matter.

Benefits include:

• Smooth professional finish
• Easier to paint or stain
• Reduced splinters
• Cleaner modern appearance
• Easier handling
• Better for visible applications

It is especially popular in:

• Modern landscaping
• Horizontal slatted fencing
• Pergolas
• Garden screens
• Interior DIY projects

Browse timber suitable for these projects here:

• Timber Rails & Battens
• Outdoor Living Products

When Should You Use Rough Sawn Timber Instead?

Rough sawn timber is often better for:

• Structural fencing
• Agricultural projects
• Heavy-duty outdoor construction
• Budget-conscious builds
• Rustic aesthetics

It is usually:

• Cheaper
• Stronger-looking
• More traditional in appearance

For example:

• Closeboard fencing
• Post and rail fencing
• Feather edge fencing

Related products:

• Closeboard Fencing Materials
• Fence Posts

Is PAR Timber Treated?

Planed all round timber can be:

• Untreated
• Pressure treated
• Kiln dried
• Internal grade
• External grade

For outdoor projects, always choose:

• Pressure treated timber
• Exterior-grade timber

This helps protect against:

• Rot
• Moisture
• Fungal decay
• Insect attack

For structural outdoor projects, treated timber is essential.

Common Uses For PAR & PSE Timber

Horizontal Slatted Fencing

Smooth planed battens create modern contemporary fencing designs.

Pergolas & Garden Structures

PAR timber creates a much cleaner finish for visible garden structures.

Related:

• Pergolas & Outdoor Living

Shelving & DIY Projects

PSE timber is widely used for:

• Shelving
• Benches
• Storage projects
• Furniture
• Garage fit-outs

Timber Framing & Joinery

Planed timber is often used for:

• Studwork finishing details
• Decorative trims
• Timber framing
• Internal woodworking

Related:

• C24 Timber

What Sizes Does PAR Timber Come In?

Common PAR timber sizes include:

• 25mm x 50mm
• 50mm x 75mm
• 50mm x 100mm
• 50mm x 150mm
• 50mm x 200mm

Remember:
Finished planed sizes are smaller than the original sawn sizes.

For example:

• 47mm x 75mm sawn timber may finish around 45mm x 70mm once planed.

Is Planed Timber More Expensive?

Yes, PAR timber is generally more expensive than rough sawn timber because it undergoes additional machining and finishing.

However, many customers feel the benefits justify the extra cost due to:

• Improved appearance
• Easier handling
• Less preparation work
• Better finished result

PAR Timber vs CLS Timber

Customers often compare PAR timber with CLS timber.

PAR Timber

• Smooth finish
• Often square-edged
• Used for visible applications

CLS Timber

• Rounded edges
• Primarily structural
• Common in stud walls and framing

CLS is more construction-focused, while PAR is usually chosen for appearance.

How To Maintain Planed Timber Outdoors

To maximise lifespan:

• Use pressure-treated timber
• Avoid standing water
• Maintain airflow around timber
• Reapply protective treatment when needed
• Use galvanised or stainless fixings

Good installation dramatically improves longevity.

Related Timber Guides

You may also find these guides helpful:

• What Is C24 Timber? C24 vs C16 Explained
• How To Build a Horizontal Slatted Fence
• Garden Fence Explained

Buy Quality Timber Online

At Clarke Fencing, we supply a wide range of timber products suitable for landscaping, fencing, construction, and DIY projects.

Our range includes:

• C24 structural timber
• Timber battens and rails
• Fence posts
• Decking timber
• Sleepers and landscaping timber

Whether you are building modern slatted fencing, pergolas, shelving, or structural outdoor projects, our team can help you choose the right timber for the job.

The post What is PAR Timber? PAR vs PSE Answered appeared first on Clarke Fencing.

When installing a patio or paving project, the finish of your joints is just as important as the slabs themselves. Poor jointing can lead to weeds, movement, and water damage over time. That is where EASYJoint comes in.

EASYJoint is one of the UK’s most popular patio jointing compounds, designed to make pointing paving quick, clean, and long-lasting. Whether you are a DIY homeowner or a professional landscaper, it offers a faster and more reliable alternative to traditional sand and cement.

EASYJoint Stone Grey

EASYJoint Mushroom

EASYJoint Buff Sand

EASYJoint Basalt

In this guide, we explain what EASYJoint is, how it works, where to use it, and why it has become a go-to solution for patios and pathways.

What is EASYJoint?

EASYJoint is an all-weather, sweep-in jointing compound used to fill the gaps between paving slabs. It is a permeable material that allows water to drain through the joints, helping to prevent water build-up and long-term damage.

Unlike traditional mortar, EASYJoint is applied using water to create a slurry that is brushed into the joints, making installation significantly easier and quicker.

It is commonly used for:

• Patios
• Garden paths
• Courtyards
• Domestic landscaping projects

Why Choose EASYJoint Over Traditional Pointing?

1. Fast and Easy Installation

EASYJoint is designed to be applied quickly with minimal tools. You simply wet the paving, pour the compound, and sweep it into the joints.

This makes it ideal for:

• DIY installations
• Large patio areas
• Time-sensitive jobs

2. All-Weather Application

Unlike traditional pointing, EASYJoint can be applied in most weather conditions, making it far more flexible for UK projects.

3. Permeable and Drainage-Friendly

EASYJoint allows water to pass through the joints rather than sit on the surface. This reduces:

• Standing water
• Frost damage
• Long-term joint failure

However, it must be installed on a free-draining base to perform correctly.

4. Strong and Durable Finish

Once cured, EASYJoint forms a solid, durable joint suitable for:

• Pedestrian traffic
• Light domestic use

It becomes firm enough to walk on within around 24 hours in good conditions.

5. Cleaner Finish Than Traditional Mortar

Because EASYJoint is applied wet and swept in, it reduces mess and helps avoid staining when installed correctly with plenty of water.

Where Can You Use EASYJoint?

EASYJoint is suitable for most paving types, including:

• Natural stone paving
• Concrete slabs
• Porcelain paving (with correct method)

However, there are some important limitations:

Suitable Conditions

• Minimum joint width: 3mm
• Minimum joint depth: 20mm
• Free-draining sub-base required

Not Suitable For

• Traditional block paving (too narrow joints)
• Areas with poor drainage or standing water
• Most driveways (use EASYJoint Pro instead)

How to Use EASYJoint (Step-by-Step)

1. Prepare the Area

• Ensure paving is clean and joints are clear
• Check the base is free-draining

2. Pre-Soak the Paving

The wetter the surface, the better. Water prevents staining and helps the compound flow properly.

3. Apply the Compound

• Pour EASYJoint onto the paving
• Add water to create a slurry

4. Sweep Into Joints

Use a broom or squeegee to work the compound into the gaps.

5. Finish the Joints

• Compact or “iron” the joints for strength and appearance
• Remove excess material

6. Clean the Surface

Wash thoroughly until no residue remains. This prevents marking and ensures a clean finish.

How Long Does EASYJoint Take to Set?

• Walkable: approx. 24 hours (in dry conditions)
• Fully cured: a few days

Cold or wet weather will slow the curing process, but it will still set once conditions improve.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

To get the best results, avoid these common issues:

• ❌ Using on a non-draining base
• ❌ Not using enough water during application
• ❌ Applying in very narrow joints
• ❌ Not cleaning the surface properly
• ❌ Using on driveways instead of the correct product

These mistakes can lead to joint failure or surface staining.

Maintenance and Aftercare

EASYJoint is low maintenance but benefits from occasional cleaning.

• Light pressure washing can remove dirt and algae
• Avoid pressure washing for at least 4 weeks after installation
• Annual cleaning helps maintain appearance

Because it is permeable, some natural colour changes or minor algae growth may occur over time. This is normal and does not affect performance.

EASYJoint vs Traditional Sand and Cement

Is EASYJoint Worth It?

For most patio and garden projects, EASYJoint is a smart investment. It saves time, improves finish quality, and reduces the risk of long-term issues when installed correctly.

It is especially ideal for:

• Homeowners installing patios
• Landscapers working on multiple jobs
• Anyone wanting a clean, professional finish without the hassle of mortar

Need More Installation Advice?

Check out our full EASYJoint Installation Guide

Final Thoughts

EASYJoint has become a trade favourite for a reason. It simplifies one of the most time-consuming parts of paving while delivering strong, long-lasting results.

If you are planning a new patio or upgrading existing paving, using a high-quality jointing compound like EASYJoint can make a significant difference to both appearance and durability.

The post What is EASYJoint? The Complete Guide to Patio Jointing Compound appeared first on Clarke Fencing.

When choosing a new garden fence, the terms closeboard and featheredge are often used interchangeably. While they are closely related, they are not the same thing. Understanding the difference helps you choose the right fencing system for your garden, budget, and durability requirements.

In this guide, we explain what closeboard fencing is, what featheredge boards are, and how they work together.

What Is Featheredge Fencing?

Featheredge refers to the individual vertical boards used to build a fence. Each board is tapered, meaning it is thicker on one edge and thinner on the other. When installed, the boards overlap to create a solid and weather-resistant fence.

Featheredge boards are not a complete fence on their own. They are a component that forms part of a closeboard fencing system.

Key Features of Featheredge Boards

• Tapered timber boards, thicker on one side

• Installed vertically with an overlap

• Typically fixed to horizontal rails

• Pressure-treated for outdoor durability

• Commonly used for strong, traditional garden fencing

Because featheredge boards are installed individually, they allow for flexibility when fencing uneven or sloping ground. Damaged boards can also be replaced one at a time without removing an entire panel.

What Is Closeboard Fencing?

Closeboard fencing is the full fencing system made using featheredge boards. It includes posts, rails, gravel boards, and featheredge boards working together to create a strong and long-lasting fence.

In simple terms:

• Featheredge is the board

• Closeboard is the fence

Closeboard fencing is sometimes called featheredge fencing, but technically, closeboard refers to the full construction method rather than the boards themselves.

Components of a Closeboard Fence

A traditional closeboard fence usually consists of:

• Fence posts, timber, or concrete

• Gravel boards at ground level

• Horizontal can’t rails fixed between posts

• Vertical featheredge boards overlapped and fixed to the rails

• Optional capping rail for a finished look

This system is widely used in the UK for garden boundaries, privacy fencing, and exposed locations where strength matters.

The post What Is the Difference Between Closeboard and Featheredge Fencing? appeared first on Clarke Fencing.

Building a raised bed using railway sleepers is one of the easiest and most effective ways to create a beautiful, low-maintenance garden feature. Whether you’re growing vegetables, flowers, or decorative shrubs, sleeper beds provide structure, drainage, and long-lasting strength — perfect for both modern and traditional garden designs.

At Clarke Fencing, we stock a full range of railway sleepers including oak, softwood, and reclaimed timber options — ideal for creating raised beds, garden borders, and retaining walls.

Why Choose Railway Sleepers for Raised Beds?

Sleepers are strong, durable, and easy to work with. Their rectangular shape allows for quick assembly and straight, uniform edges. Pressure-treated softwood sleepers offer excellent value and protection against rot, while oak or reclaimed sleepers provide a rustic, premium finish.

Key Benefits:

• Long-lasting and sturdy construction

• Natural timber look suits all garden styles

• Easy to build with basic tools

• Customisable size and height to suit your space

• Improved drainage and soil depth for healthy plant growth

Choosing the Right Type of Sleeper

Clarke Fencing supplies a variety of sleepers in different materials and sizes:

• Softwood Sleepers – Pressure-treated for durability and available in lengths like 1m, 2.4m, and 3m. Great for easy cutting and lighter weight.

• Oak Sleepers – Naturally dense hardwood with a rich, rustic appearance ideal for premium gardens.

• Reclaimed Sleepers – Weathered and characterful, perfect for a traditional or cottage-style garden look.

Tools and Materials You’ll Need

Materials:

• 4–8 railway sleepers (depending on bed size)

• Decking screws or timber coach screws

• Corner brackets or timber stakes (optional)

• Weed membrane

• Topsoil and compost mix

Tools:

• Spirit level

• Drill and long drill bit

• Saw (if cutting sleepers)

• Tape measure

• Screwdriver or impact driver

Step-by-Step: How to Build a Raised Bed

Step 1 – Plan Your Layout

Choose a sunny, level area of your garden. Decide on the shape — rectangular and square are the easiest to construct.
A common raised bed size is 1.2m x 2.4m, which allows easy access from both sides.

Lay out your sleepers on the ground to check fit and alignment before you start fixing them together.

Step 2 – Prepare the Ground

Remove any grass, roots, or debris. You can either:

• Level the ground with a spade, or

• Excavate slightly and lay a weed control membrane to stop weeds growing through the bed.

If you’re installing on a patio or concrete area, simply build the frame on top — no digging required.

Step 3 – Build the Frame

Lay out your first layer of sleepers in position. Use a spirit level to ensure they sit flat.
Fix each corner using timber screws or coach bolts for strength — pre-drill the holes to prevent splitting.

For higher beds, stack a second or third layer of sleepers on top, offsetting the joints for added stability. Secure each layer with screws or long timber dowels.

If extra reinforcement is needed, fit corner brackets inside or drive timber stakes into the ground at each corner.

Step 4 – Line the Inside

Although treated sleepers resist rot, lining the inside helps prolong lifespan. Use a weed membrane or heavy-duty landscaping fabric, stapled to the inside walls, to prevent soil contact with the timber.

Step 5 – Fill and Plant

Add a layer of gravel or rubble at the bottom for drainage, followed by a mix of topsoil and compost.
You’re now ready to plant — whether it’s herbs, vegetables, or flowering plants.

For deeper-rooted crops, consider building higher sides (three sleepers high gives around 600mm depth).

Maintenance Tips

• Apply a timber treatment or oil every 1–2 years to maintain colour and weather protection.

• Avoid using old creosote-treated railway sleepers, as these can leach chemicals.

• Check corner fixings occasionally and tighten if required.

Related Products

Complete your raised bed project with our range of landscaping materials:

• Sleepers – Oak, softwood, and reclaimed options.

• Topsoil & Aggregates – Perfect for filling and levelling.

• Decking Screws – For secure timber joining.

• Weed Control Membrane – Keeps your bed low maintenance.

For decorative finishes, you can also edge your raised bed area with sleepers for garden edging — ideal for paths or flower borders.

Helpful External Guides

For more inspiration and planting advice, explore:

• RHS – Building Raised Beds

• BBC Gardeners’ World – Raised Bed Ideas

• Homebuilding & Renovating – Garden Design Projects

Final Thoughts

Building a raised bed with railway sleepers is a simple weekend project that instantly transforms your garden. With strong, natural timber and minimal tools, you can create attractive, functional planting spaces that last for years.

Explore Clarke Fencing’s full range of railway sleepers to get started — available in oak, softwood, and reclaimed options, all pressure-treated and ready for your next garden project.

The post How to Make a Raised Bed with Railway Sleepers appeared first on Clarke Fencing.

Introduction: Why Fence Posts Fail

Wooden fence posts are one of the most common failure points in any fence line. Over time, timber posts can rot at ground level where moisture sits in the soil, eventually weakening the fence until it leans or breaks. High winds and poor drainage can accelerate this process.

Replacing an entire post or fence line can be costly and disruptive — especially if access is limited or the fence still has plenty of life left in its panels and rails. This is where a concrete repair spur becomes the ideal solution.

What is a Concrete Repair Spur?

A concrete repair spur is a 1.2m (4ft) reinforced concrete post, usually 100mm x 100mm square, with three pre-drilled fixing holes. It is designed to be concreted into the ground right next to a damaged timber post.

Once set in position, the spur is bolted to the failing post using coach screws and washers, effectively bracing it and pulling the fence line back upright. Instead of replacing the whole post, you’re adding a permanent concrete support that takes over the load.

Why Choose a Repair Spur Instead of a New Post?

• Cost-effective → Installing a spur can extend the lifespan of a fence by 5–10 years, avoiding the need for full replacement.

• Less disruption → Panels, rails, gravel boards, and capping can remain in place — you only need access to one side of the fence.

• Time saving → A spur can be installed in less than an hour once the hole is dug.

• Durability → Reinforced concrete is weatherproof and rot-proof, unlike timber.

• Sustainability → By repairing instead of replacing, you reduce waste and the need for new timber.

• Future prevention → New posts can be protected with Postsaver Sleeves to stop ground-level rot.

Step-by-Step Guide: How to Fit a Concrete Repair Spur

1. Assess the Post

Check if the fence is worth repairing. If panels, rails, and gravel boards are still in good condition, a spur is ideal. If everything is failing, full replacement may be better.

2. Dig the Hole

• Dig directly next to the damaged post, ideally at the front.

• Depth: at least 2ft (60cm) to ensure stability.

• Go slightly below the rot line so fresh concrete sets beneath the weak section.

• Leave room behind the spur for the Post Mix to pack in and hold it securely.

3. Position the Spur

• Place the 1.2m concrete spur tight against the wooden post.

• Use a level to check it is vertical in both directions.

• The pre-drilled holes should align to the mid-section of the timber post.

4. Concrete into Place

• Use 1.5–2 bags of Post Mix per spur.

• Pour Post Mix around the spur and add water as directed.

• Keep the spur upright and snug against the wooden post while the mix sets.

• Allow at least 10–15 minutes for initial firming.

5. Realign the Fence

• As the mix firms, gently pull the leaning post back upright against the spur.

• This restores the line of the fence without dismantling panels or rails.

6. Bolt the Spur to the Post

• Use 3 × M10 x 180mm coach screws and M10 square washers.

• Drill through the spur’s fixing holes into the timber post (at least 80mm penetration).

• Tighten the screws gradually — the washers spread the force and stop splitting.

• As you tighten, the post is pulled firmly against the spur.

FAQ: Common Questions About Repair Spurs

How deep should a repair spur be set?

A: At least 2ft (60cm) deep. This depth provides the stability needed to support the leaning post and resist wind loads.

How many bags of Post Mix do I need?

A: Typically 1.5–2 bags per spur. More may be required in sandy or loose soil conditions to ensure a solid hold.

Can I fit a repair spur without removing panels?

A: Yes — one of the main benefits of repair spurs is that they can be installed from one side without dismantling panels, rails, or gravel boards.

Will the fence look odd with a spur?

A: Not at all. Concrete repair spurs are slim and sit flush to the post. Many homeowners prefer the appearance of a reinforced spur over a leaning fence.

How long will a repair spur last?

A: Being concrete and rot-proof, repair spurs are designed to last for decades — often outliving the rest of the fence.

The Key Use Cases for Repair Spurs

• Rotten timber posts at ground level.

• Leaning fences caused by wind damage.

• Limited access fences where replacing posts is impractical.

• Budget-conscious repairs where replacing an entire fence line isn’t necessary.

Final Thoughts

Concrete repair spurs are one of the simplest and most cost-effective ways to restore a failing fence post. Instead of replacing whole sections, you can strengthen the existing structure, save money, and extend the life of your fence by years.

With just a spade, level, Post Mix, and coach screws, a single person can complete the repair in under an hour. For homeowners and tradespeople alike, repair spurs are a smart choice for keeping fences upright and strong without the cost of full replacement.

The post Concrete Repair Spurs: How They Work and How to Install Them appeared first on Clarke Fencing.

Garden Fence Types Explained 

The post Garden Fence Explained appeared first on Clarke Fencing.