How to Build a Paddock Fence
A well-built paddock fence does more than mark boundaries. It protects livestock, controls grazing areas, and gives your land a tidy, professional finish. Whether you’re fencing for horses, sheep, or general agricultural use, the basics remain the same: strong posts, straight rails, properly tensioned wire, and solid foundations.
This guide walks through how to build a timber paddock fence from start to finish, using proven methods that work for both small DIY projects and larger field installations.
What Is a Paddock Fence?
A traditional paddock fence usually consists of timber posts set into the ground, with horizontal fencing rails fixed between them. Many installations also include stock wire or mesh behind the rails to prevent smaller animals escaping and to stop livestock pushing through.
It’s a simple system, but when installed properly it’s incredibly durable and adaptable to uneven ground.
Paddock fencing is commonly used for:
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Horse paddocks
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Livestock enclosures
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Agricultural boundaries
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Rural gardens and driveways
What Materials Do You Need?
Before starting, it’s worth gathering everything on site so you’re not stopping halfway through the job.
At a minimum, you’ll need paddock fence posts, timber rails, and suitable galvanised fixings. If you’re containing livestock rather than just marking boundaries, you’ll also want stock wire or line wire for extra security.
For dug-in installations, post mix (Postcrete) makes setting posts fast and reliable, while post saver sleeves are strongly recommended to protect timber at ground level and extend the life of your fence.
Having all materials ready makes the job quicker and helps keep everything aligned from start to finish.
Step 1: Set Out Your Fence Line
Start by marking your fence run using stakes and a tight string line. This gives you a straight reference and helps spot any dips or rises in the ground.
Most paddock fencing uses posts at roughly 1.8m centres, with standard 3.6m rails spanning two bays. Mark each post position clearly before moving on.
Always install your end and corner posts first, as these take the most load.
Step 2: Install the Fence Posts
There are two common ways to install paddock posts:
Driving the posts
In softer ground, posts can be driven directly into place using a fence thumper or post driver. This is quick and avoids concrete, making it ideal for long fence runs.
Digging and concreting
For harder ground or key structural posts, dig holes approximately 200–250mm wide and install posts using post mix. Always check each post with a spirit level before the concrete sets.
Whichever method you choose, posts should be installed 600mm (2ft) into the ground to provide strength and wind resistance. Fitting post saver sleeves before installation adds another layer of protection and helps prevent rot where posts meet the soil.
Step 3: Fix the Rails
Once posts are secure, fix your fencing rails in place using galvanised nails or exterior-grade screws.
Most paddock fences use two or three rails, depending on the height required and the type of animals being contained. Rails should meet centrally on each post for a neat, uniform finish.
Take your time here, keeping rails level as you go. A straight rail line makes a huge difference to the finished look.
Step 4: Add Wire for Extra Security
If you’re fencing sheep, goats, poultry, or mixed livestock, fitting stock wire behind the rails adds essential containment.
Start at one end, tension the wire along the fence line, then fix it to each post using galvanised fencing staples. Some installations also use plain line wire above or below the mesh to improve strength and prevent sagging over time.
Even for horses, wire backing can help stop smaller animals escaping and protect rails from repeated pressure.
Installing on Slopes or Uneven Ground
On sloping land, posts should always be installed vertically, with rails stepped between sections rather than following the ground line. This keeps structural strength consistent and prevents rails twisting or splitting.
Corner posts on slopes may need extra depth or bracing, as they carry most of the tension load from wire and rails.
Industry Advice Worth Reading
If you’d like professional insight beyond the basics, Farmers Weekly has a helpful article titled Twelve Top Tips for Perfect Fencing, covering topics like post positioning, wire tensioning, and straining techniques.
It’s a useful reference if you’re planning a larger paddock project or want to refine your installation method.
Typical Paddock Fence Layout
Most timber paddock fences follow this general setup:
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Posts at approximately 1.8m centres
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Rails in 3.6m lengths
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Posts buried 600mm into the ground
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Two or three rails depending on livestock
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Optional stock wire or line wire for containment
Final Tips for a Long-Lasting Fence
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Use pressure-treated timber suitable for ground contact
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Fit post saver sleeves to extend post life
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Keep rails level for a professional finish
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Use galvanised fixings only
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Brace corners properly
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Plan your materials before starting to avoid delays
A well-built paddock fence should last many years with minimal maintenance, provided it’s installed correctly from day one.
