How to Install a Wooden Field Gate: Step-by-Step Guide
Installing a wooden field gate properly is the key to long-term performance. Whether you’re securing a paddock, driveway, or farm entrance, getting the setup right ensures the gate swings smoothly, stays level, and lasts for years.
This guide walks you through everything you need — from setting the posts and hanging the gate to adding finishing touches for a professional result.
What You’ll Need
Tools:
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Post hole digger or auger
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Shovel
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Spirit level
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Tape measure
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Spanners or socket set
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Drill and bits
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Saw (if trimming posts)
Materials:
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Wooden field gate – Our 5 bar field gates as well as Raised Helve Entrance Gates
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Timber gate posts – 150mm, 175mm or 200mm. More on how to decide in our Installing Gate Posts Guide
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Fast-set post mix or concrete
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Wood preservative or oil
Step 1: Mark Out the Gate Position
Before you dig any holes, measure your total opening and work out how your gates and posts will fit within it. This ensures everything aligns properly once installed.
Start by taking your overall opening width (the space between your fence lines or existing structures) and then:
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Subtract the width of both gate posts.
For example, if you’re using two 150 mm posts, that’s 300 mm in total. -
Allow space for your ironmongery and small running gaps.
Add around 100 mm to cover hinge bands, latches, and centre clearances.
That gives you your usable gate width.
In this example:
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4.0 m total opening
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minus 300 mm for posts
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minus 100 mm for ironmongery
= 3.6 m remaining gate space
Now decide whether you want:
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An equal pair of gates (for example, two × 1.8 m gates), or
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A larger vehicle gate with a smaller pedestrian gate (for example, 0.9 m + 2.7 m)
Both setups will fit neatly within the 3.6 m gap, giving enough clearance for movement and hardware while keeping the layout balanced.
Finally, mark your post centre positions on the ground and confirm your gate swing direction — gates should open into the property or field rather than outward toward a road or path.
Step 2: Dig the Post Holes
Each post hole should be at least 600 mm deep to provide a solid foundation and prevent the gate posts from leaning or twisting under load. Larger gates or softer ground conditions may require deeper holes — up to 900 mm for heavier installations.
Use a post hole digger or auger to create clean, vertical sides for stability.
If you’re using 150 mm x 150 mm gate posts, aim to:
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Dig the hole 50–100 mm wider than the post on each side to ensure full coverage when filling with Postcrete or concrete.
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Make the hole 100–200 mm deeper than the post length, so there’s a solid base beneath the post.
Once dug, fill the bottom 100–200 mm with hardcore, gravel, or Postcrete to create a compacted footing for drainage and stability.
The hanging post (the one carrying the gate hinges) takes most of the weight, so it’s good practice to:
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Set it slightly deeper, and
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Use extra Postcrete or a stronger concrete mix for maximum strength.
Step 3: Set the Posts
Once your holes are prepared, position the posts carefully and brace them temporarily with timber props or clamps to hold them upright. Use a spirit level to check each post is perfectly vertical and aligned with your gate layout — any lean here will cause alignment issues later.
150x150mm Timber Gate Post 2.4m Long
Post Saver Sleeve to Suit 150mm Posts
Using Post Saver Sleeves
Before setting the posts, it’s highly recommended to fit a Post Saver Sleeve around the ground-contact area of each post.
These sleeves create a watertight seal that prevents rot and decay where timber is most vulnerable — dramatically extending the life of your posts.
Slide the sleeve into position (typically starting about 50–100 mm above ground level) and apply heat evenly until it shrinks and bonds securely to the wood.
Setting in Concrete
Once the sleeves are in place:
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Pour in Postcrete or a 5:1 ballast and cement mix around each post.
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Tamp down firmly to eliminate air pockets.
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Shape the top of the concrete so it slopes away from the post — this helps rainwater drain off rather than pooling around the base.
Allow a minimum of 24 hours curing time before fitting hinges or hanging the gate. For larger gates, 48 hours is even better to ensure full strength.
Step 4: Fit the Gate Hinges
Your hinge set will typically include a bottom hook or sometimes called a Heel (which supports the weight of the gate) and a top adjustable band and hook for alignment. These are usually part of a field gate hinge kit designed for standard 3″ (75 mm) thick gate stiles, which all gates we stock are. Below are the two most common types of field gate hinge sets but there are many more available, view our field gate ironmongery.
Adjustable double strap hinge set Hooks to Drive In | Galvanised
Adjustable Double Strap Hinge Set with Hooks on Plates | Galvanised
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Fit the bottom hook plate to the hanging post about 150 mm above ground level.
This gives enough clearance under the gate for uneven ground or seasonal movement. -
Drill pilot holes and secure the hook plate firmly using the supplied galvanised bolts or coach screws.
Always use galvanised fixings to prevent rust and staining. -
Attach the top hinge band to the gate’s hanging stile using the fixings provided. The adjustable eye on the band allows fine-tuning after installation.
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Hold the gate in position (or use a prop) and mark the height for the top hook on the post.
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Fix the top hook plate, ensuring the top and bottom hooks align vertically so the gate will hang straight and swing freely.
Tip: The bottom hook takes the full weight of the gate, while the top hinge prevents it from tipping. Take your time to get both accurately positioned — small misalignments can lead to sagging later.
Step 5: Hang the Wooden Field Gate
With the hinge plates fitted, you can now mount the gate.
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Lift the gate onto the bottom hook first, then locate the top hinge band onto the upper hook.
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Once positioned, check the gate’s swing and alignment:
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It should open and close smoothly without scraping the ground.
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Leave around 50–75 mm clearance underneath to allow for uneven surfaces and drainage.
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The top rail should sit level with the closing post when the gate is shut.
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Adjust the top hinge band as needed — the threaded section allows fine-tuning so you can raise or lower the hanging stile slightly.
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When you’re satisfied with the fit, tighten all hinge bolts securely to lock the setup in place.
Pro Tip: If you’re fitting a pair of gates, align the top rails so they meet level in the middle before tightening. This ensures an even, professional finish.
Step 6: Fit the Latch and Drop Bolt
Once your gate is swinging correctly, it’s time to install the latch hardware. There are several fastening options depending on your setup and how the gate will be used — from simple daily access to secure double-gate systems.
For single field gates, you can choose from:
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Chain fasteners – a simple, traditional way to secure the gate by looping a galvanised chain through the stile and post. Ideal for agricultural or paddock gates where ease of use matters more than appearance.
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Self-locking catch kits – automatically latch when the gate closes, allowing quick one-handed operation. A good choice for pedestrian or driveway gates.
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Spring fasteners – a slightly more premium option that provides a smoother locking action and stronger hold, suited for regular use or driveways where presentation matters.
For double gate setups, you’ll need a combination of fittings to secure both leaves properly:
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Throw-over loops – these connect the top rails of two gates, keeping them securely closed together.
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Drop bolts – fitted to one gate (the “slave” gate) or both gates to pin it into the ground, allowing the other gate to operate independently when required.
New Zealand Chain Gate Fastener | BZP
24″ Spring Fastener Set Drive In | Galvanised
Self Locking Field Gate Catch Kit | Galvanised
Double Field Gate Fastener Set with Drop Bolt | Galvanised
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With the gate closed, mark the position of your latch on the closing post.
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For a single gate, a spring latch or auto latch is ideal for daily use.
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For pairs of gates, use a throw-over loop and drop bolt combination.
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Drill pilot holes and fit the latch with galvanised fixings to prevent corrosion.
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If you’re fitting a drop bolt, ensure it’s long enough to penetrate at least 100 mm into the ground for secure holding.
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On wider gates, consider installing a ground socket or concrete stop point for the drop bolt to slot into — this prevents movement during high winds.
For all components, check out our range of field gate ironmongery kits, including latches, hinges, drop bolts, and throw-overs designed to match both wooden and metal field gates.
Step 7: Check Operation and Adjust
Now that your gate is installed, test it several times to make sure everything functions smoothly.
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Open and close the gate fully, watching for any sticking or dragging points.
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Adjust the top hinge using the threaded eye bolt if the gate sags or sits unevenly — a half turn can make a noticeable difference.
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Ensure the latch engages easily and that the gate closes snugly without strain.
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Re-check all bolts and fixings after a few days of use once the posts have settled and the concrete has fully cured.
Tip: It’s normal for timber gates to settle slightly as they absorb or lose moisture. The adjustable hinges allow you to correct for this over time.
Step 8: Apply Preservative and Finish
Once the gate is hung and aligned, protect your investment by sealing and maintaining the timber.
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Apply a quality wood preservative or UV-resistant oil to all exposed areas — especially cut ends, joints, and edges.
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Use a brush or roller to achieve an even coat, allowing it to soak fully into the grain.
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Reapply annually to protect against moisture, UV damage, and surface cracking.
If you’ve purchased one of our Jakcured® pressure-treated field gates, you’ll already benefit from a 25-year treatment guarantee, meaning only light maintenance is needed.
For untreated or custom-finished gates, keeping up with oiling and surface care will significantly extend their lifespan and maintain their natural colour.
